PARIS — The latest edition of Paris trade show Beyond Beauty, held from Sept. 9 to 11 at the Porte de Versailles exhibition center, saw significant declines in visitor and exhibitor numbers.
With its Cosmeeting area for brands and Creative Beauty section for suppliers, the show welcomed 18,248 visitors, a 15.1 percent decrease year-on-year. Exhibitor numbers also declined sharply, down 32.9 percent to 361.
Several exhibitors questioned the show’s relevance, citing a lack of traffic and a drop in the number of major firms exhibiting.
“This is the first and last time we will exhibit here,” said one brand executive.
Nevertheless, the event’s Zoom section, a key launch platform for young brands, remained a highlight.
Among these were French companies Bye Bye Racines, backed by celebrity hairstylist Rodolphe, and new niche fragrance brand Lise London.
The former took home the Grand Prize at the Beauty Challenger Awards, which recompense brands in the Zoom section, while the latter won the prize for the fragrance category.
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Bye Bye Racines presented a water-resistant spray that temporarily colors hair roots, to be launched in November and targeting selective distribution.
Former fashion designer London presented a quirky range of 10 fragrances with names like An Ideal Lover and A Perfect Woman, each presented with a manual on how to gain fulfilment in life. The concept had seen interest from the Middle East’s Chalhoub Group and Neiman Marcus at the show, London said.
Japanese skin-care company Yu-Be was looking to up European distribution, especially in France, after being featured in Parisian department store Le Bon Marché’s ongoing Japan exhibition.
“There’s been a great deal of interest,” said sales and marketing director Matthew Graham. “We’ve talked to Sephora and Monoprix.”
The brand, stocked by retailers such as Sephora and Nordstrom in the U.S., is practically unknown in Europe.
Former model and actress Marisa Berenson was targeting new distribution for her Soin Sublime skin-care line, initially launched with hotel chain Sofitel.
“We’re branching out to department stores in the U.S. [and] are looking for a point of sale in Paris,” said Berenson.
Within Creative Beauty, the BBLab innovation area focused on hair care, and several conferences highlighted the segment as a key area for future developments.
The global hair-care market is expected to grow 22 percent to $60.7 billion by 2017, compared to $50.2 billion in 2012, according to ingredients-maker Induchem’s scientific marketing project partner Alexandre Lapeyre, who spoke about the potential of antiaging ingredients transposed from the skin-care universe in the hair-care industry.
“Hair care is booming and antiaging has huge potential,” he said. “Hair care is driving innovation.”
The Swiss company has developed antiaging ingredients like Redensyl that boosts hair-growth cycles, and others targeting pollution, excess sebum, scalp disorders and color changes.
Another highlight on the conference schedule was delivered by Spanish company Infinitec, which has developed a way to encapsulate active ingredients so they only penetrate targeted cells.
Inspired by developments in cancer treatment, the company’s “capsules” are available in antiaging, silhouette, Botox-like and whitening versions, Infinitec research and development director Marisabel Mourelle said.
The company has already sold the technology to several leading industry players, said Mourelle, and further developments are underway.
“We are working on new products in different cell types, probably to be launched next year,” she added.
Among suppliers, Italian airless specialist Lumson presented P-Colors, a pack with a transparent outer chamber and colored inner pouch intended to bring novelty to the segment.
“It’s a new way to see the product,” said Lumson operational marketing manager Marina Chiesa, specifying that a wide range of colors are available and the pouch can also be screen-printed for decorative possibilities.
At BCM, the contract manufacturing division of Alliance Boots, novelties included a mist cushion inspired by products from Asia.
“There are currently no such products on the market in Europe,” said BCM sales and marketing director Marie-Christine Clerc, who hopes to attract premium brands with the concept.