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Special Issue
Beauty Inc issue 09/11/2009

Cutting-edge retailers around the world divulge the five launches they’re most excited about for fall-and why.

This story first appeared in the September 11, 2009 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

 

SEPHORA, U.S.


Sephora’s on-trend approach to beauty has found success with women across the country. The retailer continues to roll out new ideas, as with its recently opened Times Square store in New York. “This fall is all about creating drama and embracing that classic, Old Hollywood style,” says Allison Slater, Vice President of
Sephora retail marketing. “The powdery matte skin; bold, dark lips and nails, and theatrical eyes we’re seeing this season draw inspiration from the film noir era.”

 

ILLAMASQUA

Born out of the idea that we all have a nighttime alter ego, cult-favorite U.K. brand Illamasqua allows you to express your most daring side. Making its U.S. debut, the highly dramatic line is known for its rich textures and bold colors.

 

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TEMPTU AIRBRUSH MAKEUP SYSTEM

A true makeup revolution, Temptu Airbrush Makeup System provides flawless, professional results and is easy to use from the comfort of your home.


LESLIE BLODGETT PERFUME DIARIES

A new take on scent, Leslie Blodgett Perfume Diaries focuses on the emotional aspect of fragrance, using the entrepreneurial powerhouse’s dynamic life and favorite memories as inspiration. The first scent in the series, Bare Skin, re-creates a trip to Mexico with its sensual, caressing florals.

 

SEPHORA BY OPI IN DARK ROOM


We expect this to be an instant cult favorite. An intense midnight green shade so dark it’s almost black, Dark Room is sultry and glamorous and right on trend with fall’s dramatic looks.

KAT VON D FOR SEPHORA FRAGRANCES IN SINNER AND SAINT

These were created to match your every mood. Designed to be worn alone or layered together for a fragrance all your own, Sinner plays up your inner bad girl with spicy, warm notes, while Saint is a charming and fresh scent.

 

COIN, MILAN

 

“The trend we’re seeing for fall is a makeup that’s going to be in really dark shades, but done in a way that is elegant and glamorous,” says Daniela Manzoni Suppiej, product manager at Milan’s storied Coin. “Chanel has really struck that note with its new autumn collection—the nail varnishes are nearly black and the lipstick is very audacious. This look is for secure and modern women who aren’t afraid of makeup. In fragrances, the brands are coming out with more clever concepts for fall.”

 

DEAD SEA SALT BY BEAUTY PREMIER

This brand operates out of Bologna and sources its salt from Israel. The salt is super-regenerating for the skin, and a base for which to start fall/winter beauty care.

 

SHISEIDO’S FUTURE SOLUTION LX

 

It works incredibly well and the texture is reallysomething palpably different, showing this beauty firm is ahead of the pack.


MAC’S MINERAL MAKEUP COLLECTION


Natural powders produced in an artisan way, it’s a different mineral makeup collection with stronger pigments in more modern colors.

 

THE BALM

 

This makeup line is launching in fall, with eye-catching packaging. Lipsticks come in tubes decorated in newspaper pages. Also important to Coin today, the customer is more attracted to a succinct product that speaks for itself. The accessible prices are also really relevant for today’s customer.

ARTISAN SOAP BY FATTORIA DI BELCANTO


The company is based near Florence and produces soaps in the same way they were made in Italy hundreds of years ago. The soap is manufactured without chemicals and the process respects the environment. Fattoria di Belcanto also uses offbeat ingredients like lettuce, blackberry, fig and rosemary. Even the filling process is particular: Flacons are filled by keglike drafting units.

 

SELFRIDGES, LONDON

 

Celebrating its 100th anniversary this year, Selfridges’ image is fresher than ever. Fashionistas flock to the Oxford Street flagship to get hold of beauty essentials as well as the latest musthaves. Beauty buffs will throw out the rule book this fall and opt for striking makeup, says Christine Benson, buying manager. “There’s a trend for red lips and really dark eyes, or really dark eyes and nude lips,” she says, adding loose buns and chignons are key for hair.

 

QMS MEDICOSMETICS

In Germany, this brand is neck and neck with La Prairie. Dr. [Erich] Schulte [an aesthetic surgeon who is the brand’s founder] has credentials that are second to none.

 

LES EXCLUSIFS DE CHANEL BEIGE

 

We will be the only store in the U.K. with a stand-alone Chanel fragrance boutique. The fact that we will be able to offer customers Les Exclusifs within a Chanel fragrance environment will be a huge boost.


SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL

 

Sebastian products are usually sold in salons and this is its first venture into retail. We’re going to have a blow-out bar. We thrive on theater and our customers enjoy that. Hair care is a huge market for us, and it’s also very popular with men.

 

BOADICEA THE VICTORIOUS

[Michael Boadi, Boadicea’s founder] is so creative it’s unbelievable. We already have about 20 Boadicea fragrances and they’re flying out the door. I’m excited about the six-unit Oud collection and three new scents that’ll launch before the holidays.


K BY BEVERLEY KNIGHT


We currently don’t offer a specific makeup line for black skin. K by Beverley Knight was designed with black skin in mind and so has a larger array of color options in foundations. Beverley [a British soul singer], is a trusted celebrity who has been around for 10 or 15 years. She’s introducing a new album in September, which coincides with the launch. She has credibility.

 

BLOOMINGDALE’S

 

The storied retailer is unveiling its revamped flagship beauty floor this fall, adding an injection of energy and excitement. But beauty is more than skin deep, says Vice President and Divisional Merchandise Manager of Cosmetics Howard Kreitzman. “The key trend for the season is not a look, but rather a point of view, and that is value,” he says. “We believe every customer will be looking for major value in every category.”

THE NEW BWAY AT 59TH STREET

Six new brands, an entirely new environment—high tech, customer-friendly counters and a new dedication to customer service.

 

CHANEL ULTRA CORRECTION LIFT


Chanel’s major new thrust in skin care represents a significant opportunity for growing the category.

 

ESTÉE LAUDER ADVANCED NIGHT REPAIR SYNCHRONIZED RECOVERY COMPLEX

The newly formulated version of a very successful key product.


LANCÔME OSCILLATION POWER FOUNDATION


This stands for innovation, and Lancôme’s Oscillation franchise has worked very well in mascara.


JUICY COUTURE COUTURE & MARC JACOBS LOLA

New, fun and already both winners.

 

COW PARFYMERI, STOCKHOLM

 

Sweden’s four Cow Parfymeri stores offer an eclectic selection of makeup, fragrance and skin care that can be hard to find in Scandinavia. Expected to be hot this season: copper eye shadow. “This is a very versatile color that can be worn as a thin veil of color on the entire lid or together with a kohl pencil for an intense, smoky eye,” says owner and makeup artist Wenche Hughes. “Great with another fall favorite—the red lips!”


LAURA MERCIER LONG LASH MASCARA


This is a truly amazing mascara that gives perfect, long lashes. The small brush makes it possible to apply the mascara from the very roots of the lashes to the top without mess.

LAURA MERCIER PRESSED MINERAL POWDER

 

We are looking forward to this pressed version, as her mineral foundation has been best-in-test in here in Sweden and a huge success with our customers!

 

SWEDISH SKINCARE SYSTEM EVERYDAY SOFT FOAMING CLEANSER

 

This company  makes products that really work, but possible, making the skin really clean and nourished.

 

HUMIECKI & GRAEF FRAGRANCES

A wonderfully different perfume brand with a unique quality. My favorite of the scents is Eau Radieuse.

 

ETRO PERFUMES

A great line of perfumes in new, beautiful packaging. Their Patchouly is the best on the market.

 

AÉPURE, PARIS


The latest indie boutique on the Paris scene, Aépure focuses on ferreting out the most unique offerings worldwide. Of what’s hot for fall, founder François de Grossouvre says: “The key trend will confirm a return to authentic and efficacious products.”

 

DR. BRAGI FACE AND BODY SALVATION


This product is outstanding, as it is full of marine enzymes from Iceland that clean skin and repair sun damage.

 

EVIDENS DE BEAUTÉ BODY CREAM


It has an incredible texture, incredible quality and gives an immediate smoothing, firming and hydrating effect.

 

SNOWBERRY NOURISHING RICH DAY CREAM


This exclusive brand from New Zealand, the first with a carbon-zero label, has products full of peptides. It uses specific plants from the Amazon cultivated specifically by and for Snowberry. The strong action of the peptides contributes very efficiently to repair facial skin after sun and sea exposure. Additionally, it has a very strong
antiaging effect.

 

SJÄL EYE CONTOUR CRÈME


It is the best eye contour product ever, and is full of plants and minerals.

 

JOHN MASTERS ORGANICS HONEY & HIBISCUS HAIR RECONSTRUCTING SHAMPOO

This hair treatment is for use following exposure to sun, wind and sea, and is incredibly repairing and hydrating.

 

MURALE, CANADA

 

Beauty’s boom times continue in Canada. Witness the success of Murale, the newest concept from powerhouse retailer Shoppers Drug Mart, which plans on opening five stores during the second half of this year, to reach seven by yearend. “Fall is going to be really exciting,” says Shelley Rozenwald, president. “Product that’s either fantasy and fashionable on the one hand or very functional on the other is going to do really well.”

 

NATURA BISSÉ THE CURE PURE SERUM

Unbelievable. Natura Bissé uses the most incredible ingredients. Our counters know [this product] is coming and customers are really looking forward to the launch. It’s not about price. Customers want products that perform.

 

MARC JACOBS LOLA

 

I think it’s going to be a runaway success. The bottle is outstanding. The attention to detail with the cap and the colors is beautiful. It’s going to stand out in the stores and the scent is beautiful. In business times like these, although we’re not experiencing it in Canada, women are going to look for something that is really beautiful and Marc Jacobs has done it.

 

BOBBI BROWN METALLIC LONG-WEAR CREAM SHADOW

Bobbi Brown understands what makes a woman look and feel beautiful. What she’s done with these metallics, which is hard to do with eye shadows, is create a formula and colors that make it very easy for a woman to have the look and go from day to evening. They’re very glamorous and are going to do very, very well.

 

BARE ESCENTUALS MATTE MAKEUP

Minerals tend to add a glow to your skin, and as one gets older, one doesn’t want to draw attention to those lines. What Bare Escentuals has done with matte will reach out to a whole new customer and appeal to women over 35 or 40. The ad campaign is brilliant—so cool.


CHANEL NOIRS OBSCURS

 

I went crazy when I saw this. I remember years ago when Chanel did Vamp, and when I saw this, I said, “Oh my God! It’s so different from everything else [on the market], and very wearable, very chic and will appeal to women of all ages.”

 

TSUM, MOSCOW

 

Tsum has quickly become Moscow’s must-visit emporium for upscale beauty brands. “On the whole, we’re seeing a continuation of the trend of our customers searching for individuality in their fragrances, makeup and skin care,” says Zhanna Kolesnikova, beauty buyer. To that end, Tsum continues to broaden its range of niche scents (such as By Killian, Etat Libre d’Orange and Jo Malone) and skin care including Dr. Sebagh, RéVive, Dr. Jules Nabet and Leaf & Rusher. “Clients want to see results as soon as possible, and are finding that professionals give them the desired effect,” says Kolesnikova.

 

JO MALONE NECTARINE BLOSSOM & HONEY


This brand only appeared at Tsum recently, but has already become a top seller thanks to its unique concept and the quality of the fragrances.

 

RÉVIVE INTENSITÉ FLUIDE SUPERBE


We’ve noticed a constant growth in interest in “doctor brands.” It’s connected with the fact that clients want to see an instant effect after using a skin care product.

 

BOBBI BROWN NUDE SHIMMER BRICK

This brand has been available in Russia forless than a year, and is available only in Tsum, but it’s already managed to win a large number of fans owing to its high quality and the company’s long experience in makeup production. Based on its popularity, we’re certain that the fundamental idea behind The Nude Collection— naturalness—will never go out of fashion.

 

DOLCE & GABBANA MAKEUP


The launch of this makeup line in Russia is exclusively at Tsum and is intended for September. Tsum will be only the fifth store across the world where this legendary brand’s makeup is sold. We’re confident that our customers will be paying attention.

 

FRÉDÉRIC MALLE GERANIUM POUR MONSIEUR


New fragrances from niche brands are extremely popular among Tsum customers and are always met with genuine interest.

 

GUERLAIN LES SECRETS DE SOPHIE

 

A new fragrance from Maison Guerlain. An exclusive collection of fragrances offered in the Maison Guerlain boutique.

 

KIT, AUSTRALIA

 

ORIGINS NIGHT HEALTH RANGE BY DR. WEIL


No one embraces naturals like the Australian consumer. We’re predicting that Origins’ Night Health Range by Dr. Weil, with its additional integrative health focus, will be a big hit.

KORRES ANTIOXIDANT ORGANIC FACE PRIMER


Korres’ organic primer will catapult the brand further into the spotlight. Its natural products have great appeal, and an organic primer will have a completely unique positioning that will bring even more customers to the brand.


KIT COSMETICS MAKEUP KIT RANGE

This year we’re launching Makeup Kit, which features on-trend yet wearable shades for a fresh take on beauty. To celebrate, we’re collaborating with renowned Australian designer and illustrator Beci Orpin, who has created Kit utility and tote bags inspired by her take on the brand.

 

TOO FACED HOLIDAY OFFER

 

Too Faced again has created a range of “gorgeous,” value loaded palettes and packs for holiday. The Marie Antoinette–inspired collection offers can’t-go-wrong gift ideas. Too Faced always seems to get gifting right with appealing, colorful palettes containing well-coordinated color with a large value saving. Our customers love the offers every single time.

 

LIPSTICK QUEEN 15 MINUTES OF FAME LIPGLOSS


The upcoming launch of Poppy King’s 15 Minutes of Fame lip glosses is bound to be a success. A local and much-loved Melbourne girl, Lipstick Queen launched in Kit in October and developed an immediate and cult following.

 

 

 

 

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