Jin Soon Choi used nine shades of Marc Jacobs Beauty nail polish in deep jewel tones. “It’s about how to show off your skin, shamelessly,” said Choi, who noted that darker shades enhance skin tones.
The beauty look at Marc Jacobs was a celebration of matchy-matchy colors, going back “to the roots of fashion,” said Diane Kendal, who led makeup using Marc Jacobs Beauty products. Models were outfitted with a light layer of Jacobs’ new Shameless Youthful-Look foundation, and the focus was brought to the eye with different color shadows — hat-donning models sported shadows that matched the underside of their brims. To get the look, Kendal pressed glitter eye shadow onto lids with her fingers, before wetting a makeup brush and applying the next glitter layer. The color extended beyond the outsides of the eye, to the temples. Eyes were finished with black liner, and cheeks were lightly stained with a deep berry lipstick, called Scandal. The eye shadow focus of the fall New York runways is a shift from seasons’ past, Kendal acknowledged. “It’s a nice way of playing with makeup,” she said. “It’s a way of creating a look without being too [made up] — there’s no lip, there’s very little cheek, so it is just about the eye.”
Backstage at Jill Stuart RTW Fall 2018
Model on the catwalk, detail Michael Kors show, Detail, Fall Winter 2018, New York Fashion Week, USA – 14 Feb 2018
To celebrate the designer’s recent collaboration with MAC Cosmetics, makeup artist Kabuki created a neon, three-dimensional look that emulates the graphic element seen in Scott’s designs. “I wanted to put across a feeling of Eighties’ futuristic pop in a way that was pretty and fresh,” Kabuki said. The look focused on a three-dimensional winged eyeliner created with plastic, with the corresponding color eye shadow blended in the inner corner of the eyes. — Layla Ilchi
Makeup, crafted by Tom Pecheux for MAC, but explained by senior artist Keri Blair, included sheer washes of color. “It’s very melted, kind of beautiful — [there’s] almost a transparent, stained eye,” Blair explained, as Pecheux had not yet arrived to the Lam backstage after keying the makeup at Ralph Lauren earlier in the day. To get the look, artists used colors from a new MAC eye shadow palette, pressing a taupe-ish shade called Sabled into the inner corner of eyes, with a deeper tone called Oliveyou toward the outer edges, from the lashes to the brow bone. Eyelashes — top and bottom — were coated with three coats of Haute & Naughty mascara, and eyes were rimmed with a green liner (Minted Eye Kohl). For skin, models were lightly contoured and then highlighted with a mix of shades from MAC’s not-yet-released Hyper Real Glow Palettes. A muted pink called Demureish was pressed into lips. — Allison Collins
Diane Kendal for MAC Cosmetics used the brand’s Extra Dimension highlighters — Glow With It for darker skin and Beaming Blush for lighter tones — to create a flushed cheek. She used a light brown shadow with a pearlescent sheen to fill in the full lid and line the upper and lower lashes, finessing the outer corners with a darker brown shade and creating a glossy finish with a MAC Lip Glass. — Ellen Thomas
“It’s the easiest smoky eye that you can do,” said Erin Parsons, who keyed makeup for Maybelline. Makeup focused on a black, smoky eye, which was first created with the Maybelline Eyestudio Lasting Drama Waterproof Gel Pencil in sleek onyx. The eyeliner was applied on the crease, on the top and bottom of the eye and water line. Then a black glitter was coated onto the eyelids by using a finger application. Waterproof black mascara was also added to further the graphic look. — Layla Ilchi
The look at Libertine was “kind of like the girls just walked out of an opium den,” said makeup artist Katie Jane Hughes, working for Too Cool for School and Whal Myung. Models sported dark black shadow — “almost tarlike” — with matte skin and a wine-stained pout, Hughes said. Eyes were coated in gloss just before models hit the runway. — Allison Collins
The nails were a big part of the show at Libertine, where CND’s Jan Arnold crafted a variety of fringed options — including several sets that had ombré fringe long enough to drag on the runway. Others had appliqué flowers, some were beaded and some had shorter fringe. “We were able to find this fringe in South Africa, it came to us totally white — we dyed it,” Arnold said. “The girls who wear the fringe will wear a solid set of fringe, it’ll drag down the runway and then [designer Johnson Hartig’s] vision was if they plunge their hands in their pockets, the fringe is pouring out of the pocket.” — Allison Collins
“The collection is inspired by Eighties Versace,” said Jin Soon Choi, who keyed nails. Models received one of four shades of nail polish: Charade, a grayish blue; Army Green; Caramel Brown, and Bright Gold. The color palette was meant to mimic the earthy tones and mixed prints within the collection. — Layla Ilchi
“We’re calling this a modern nomad with intense earth-colored eyes,” said Francelle Daly, who keyed makeup for Nars. To create the earthy eye, Daly used a brown and black eyeliner. She first applied the brown eyeliner on both lash lines and smudged it with a brush. Then she went over with the black eyeliner to further the smudgy look. A clear mascara and brow gel were also applied to emphasize the eye, but not to take away the earthy feeling. The look was then finished with a new lip balm in the brand’s iconic Orgasm shade, which will launch in the summer. — Layla Ilchi
Kanako Takase for Maybelline had snow bunnies in mind when creating the makeup for Philipp Plein. Playing off of the bedazzled snowboards in the collection, Takase first mixed Maybelline Facestudio Master Chrome Metallic Highlighter with the Facestudio Holographic Prismatic Highlighter for a luminous sheen. Then eyes were given a dramatic look with a mixture of brown and plum eye shadow. The eyes were then finished off with a thick black eyeliner and Maybelline Total Temptation Mascara. — Layla Ilchi
“Glitter on top of a very English garden rose,” is how Tom Pecheux for MAC Cosmetics described the makeup look he created for Oscar de la Renta’s fall show. Pecheux was inspired by the botanical-themed embroidery throughout the collection. For the eye, he used a sheer wash of MAC’s Spiceberry eye shadow all over the lid, then applied a hot pink liquid lip color — Pink Trip — in the center and blended out for a glossy, shimmery finish. — Ellen Thomas
Julie Kandalec for Essie conceived of a burgundy manicure to match the floral and Elizabethan prints featured in the collection, using Essie’s bordeaux polish. — Ellen Thomas
“She’s talking about a time of innocence, pre-hippy and pre-bohemian,” said Pat McGrath, who keyed makeup at Anna Sui. Makeup focused on a graphic pink and purple eye. The look was first started with a pink eye shadow applied by the brow bone and a purple eye shadow applied on both lash lines. Then, a high-pigment, wet purple eye shadow was applied directly on the crease to create a graphic arched line. A glittery highlighter, which McGrath hinted as her next launch, was also applied on the eyelids to finish the look. — Layla Ilchi
Jin Soon Choi said nails at Lam was inspired by the 1944 film “National Velvet.” “This girl got a horse and she became a competitor,” Choi said. “Like blush makes you [look] healthier — that’s kind of the idea. A healthy glow on your nails.” — Allison Collins
Diane Kendal for MAC Cosmetics created a deep royal blue eye with MAC pigment in Naval Blue. She called it “midnight smokey.” — Ellen Thomas
“It’s like jewelry on nails — when the light hits, you want it to shine,” said Naomi Gonzalez for Zoya, who led the nail look. Gonzalez alternated painting nails with solid coats of four shimmery jewel-tone shades, ranging from copper to a gold-flecked emerald, and blended two shades of purple to get a custom gold-flecked amethyst. — Ellen Thomas
Nails, by Mei Kawajiri, were nude, with an extra coat to emphasize the half moon.
Backstage at Alexander Wang RTW Fall 2018
“It’s a red lip with a thread of gold,” said Tom Pecheux, who keyed makeup for MAC, on the focal point of the look. The look was first created with two glitter pigments, one white and one gold, which thinly lined the upper lip. Pecheux then went over the gold line with a matte red lipstick, so that the red would look rich while still having the gold peep through. The look was finished off with the same gold pigment dabbed at the center of the bottom lip.
“Python lips,” was all James Kaliardos, who keyed makeup for Maybelline, said when he first explained the look. The look focused mainly on the lips with a rich matte plum hue. To create the look, Kaliardos used a layered approach by first drawing the lips in with liner, then applying the Maybelline Superstay Matte Ink. He then used the Maybelline Lip Studio Python Metallic Lip Kit in Snakebite on the cupid’s bow. A gold hue was also dusted on the eyelids. — Layla Ilchi
“It’s that signature cobalt blue,” said Fatima Thomas, senior makeup artist for MAC Cosmetics, who led makeup for Chromat. The idea was to pull the water elements of the show’s invitation into the look with a less structured take on the show’s generally blue-oriented makeup look. To create it, Thomas used an ulta marine blue in the models’ waterlines, and mixed cyan and cobalt colors to create an imperfect wing. “It looks painterly,” she said. Lips were orange. — Allison Collins
Makeup artist Pat McGrath channeled street style into the beauty look for Tom Ford, using Tom Ford Beauty. “Street beauty, smoky eyes…a little bit boyish,” McGrath described the look — “like they did it themselves.” For the eye, she used a combination of black and gray on the lids, with a slight sparkle “for texture and depth.” Clumpy mascara on the top and bottom lashes finished the look.
Beauty at Tory Burch was hardly a look at all — the designer tapped makeup artist Diane Kendal and hairstylist Guido Palau for Redken to design a “natural beauty” look. Kendal swept a MAC Cremeblend Blush in a shade in a bright pink shade called Posey across cheekbones, and lined inner rims with a white liner for a bright-eyed effect — sorely needed, as the backstage call time was early-morning in the empty Bridgemarket space under the Queensboro Bridge. — Ellen Thomas
The nail look at Sandy Liang was pure Millennial nostalgia. Nail artist Holly Falcone for Orly created a shimmery blue-green blend designed to match the nail look sported by Hallie Parker, one of Lindsay Lohan’s twin characters in the 1996 remake of “The Parent Trap.” The reference is one many of those who grew up in the Nineties — like Liang herself — remember fondly. Falcone created the custom color with a blend of two of the brand’s polishes: Royal Navy and I See Blue. — Ellen Thomas
“She’s a little bit New Wave-y and a little rough,” said Dick Page, who keyed makeup for MAC. Taking inspiration from the tiger print seen in the clothing, Page applied a graphic black eyeliner across the model’s eyelids with a generous amount of mascara. Some models also received a large swipe of neon pink, blue, purple or yellow above the black eyeliner, some corresponding to their outfits and others clashing. — Layla Ilchi
After seeing the image of Tonya Harding holding her ice skates with purple glittery nail polish in her recent New York Times profile, Selman knew he wanted the look re-created for his show. Holly Falcone, who keyed nails for Orly, gave the models an almond-shaped nail and either applied a bright red polish, called Love My Nails, or a purple glittery hue, called Miss Conduct, that resembled the shade worn by Harding. — Layla Ilchi
“It’s an organic play on disco,” said Romy Soleimani, who keyed the makeup for MAC. The focal point of the look was a gold leaf applied on the eyelids in a natural way that didn’t look too precise. To apply the gold leaf, Soleimani used the Tata Harper Contouring Eye Mask as an adhesive instead of glue. The look was finished with a dusty, matte pink. — Layla Ilchi
“We want the nails to look like black patent,” said Rita Remark, who keyed nails for Essie. For the rock ‘n’ roll meets Rococo inspiration, Remark used two coats of Essie nail polish in Licorice, a jet-black hue and topped it off with Essie Speed Setter Top Coat for a patent finish. — Layla Ilchi
Nails at Carolina Herrera’s fall show were painted using Patricia Nail Lacquer in Covenant, a rich mahogany shade with a pearlescent sheen. Nail artist Pattie Yankee told WWD the choice in color was a departure for Herrera. “She usually goes with a natural nail, so this is something different.” — Ellen Thomas
Backstage at Michael Kors RTW Fall 2018