PARIS — Exhibitors at MakeUp in Paris’ most recent edition placed a large emphasis on cosmetics textures.
The trade show that ran from June 18 to 19 at the Carrousel du Louvre here drew approximately 3,200 attendees, up 14.3 percent from last year. One hundred and twenty-six exhibitors took part, of which some 60 percent were color-cosmetics formulators, 30 percent packaging suppliers and 10 percent makeup accessories creators.
Show organizers noted a recent surge in water-based formulations, which are fluid, light and give a fresh sensation, and that freshness was a big trend in makeup overall.
Mascara Plus, a supplier from Inzago, Italy, was showing a new lip gloss, called Aqua Lip Balmy Color, with a water-based formula.
“Its particularity is the feeling of the product on the lips,” explained Tiziana Mognoni, sales and marketing director at the company, who added that traditional lip glosses can be somewhat sticky.
Whereas with the new formula, “you feel a sort of cushion, and a fresh feeling,” she said. “So it’s very comfortable and extra-shiny like a standard lip gloss. Thanks to the presence of water, the sensoriality is completely changed.”
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Touch in Sol’s new tint had a high water content, as well.
“It’s a watercolor tint,” said Lauren Eriksen, the South Korean company’s manager for North America, who explained that due to the inclusion of water in the product, pigments won’t separate and therefor the stain color remains true. “Most tints are very dry,”
Touch in Sol was also highlighting an “e-powder,” which is a powder that becomes liquid upon contact with skin.
“It’s primarily used for skin-care foundations and things like that, but we’ve added pigmentation,” so it can go into products like lip stain, continued Eriksen.
Coson’s Marbling Pack compact was billed as having a refreshing aspect.
“It is a three-in-one [product] with facial UV protection, moisturizing and antiaging [benefits],” said Sky Muhammad, assistant manager for the Seoul-based company’s global original design manufacturing department. “A lot of people really like it because of the texture. It’s very refreshing. It is extremely light on your skin.”
The executive said Coson is taking jelly-textured products a step further.
“We’re really working on formulations — even on the nanotechnology side — with memory polymers,” said Muhammad. “We’re working with those a lot more. They’ve become really popular because of the way they adhere to your skin. It’s a lot smoother, more natural and you get much better coverage. We’ve also gone to gel-type products, color products for point makeup — cheek, eye and so forth.”
Coson is branching into gel-like foundations, for instance, that give a smooth matte look.
Muhammad noted in general a big move toward liquid foundations.
“Liquid products are coming back; there’s a big resurgence in that,” he said, adding “also with all-in-one skin-care and functional cosmetics. We’re really capitalizing on that, in the segment of finished products.”
Present for the first time at MakeUp in Paris was S&J International Enterprises Public Co. Ltd., of Bangkok, which was displaying a wide variety of new textures. There was a “mattifying stick,” whose product glides on easily, has a soft feel and was designed to absorb skin’s sebum. Meanwhile, the formulation in the company’s “elastic eye shadow” contains powder, some oil and water.
“It helps to absorb a lot more of the pigment — so that’s why the pigmentation is very high,” said Kanokkan Boon-Amnuay, business development manager at S&J.
A third novelty shown by the firm was its “cooling stick,” whose texture can be adapted to any kind of color cosmetic, according to Boon-Amnuay.
Additions to MakeUp in Paris included a central “innovation tree” from which 73 products from 34 exhibitors dangled after they were chosen in a competition by a panel of judges. The Evening Beauty exhibition showcased pieces such as handbags, compacts and lipsticks culled from the private collections belonging to Anne Camilli and Jean-Marie Martin-Hattemberg.
Many exhibitors said they found the show strong in general.
“We are meeting many, many customers — not only our standard ones but also new potential contacts,” said Mascara Plus’ Mognoni.
“We’ve really been excited about getting exposure and attention from a lot of European fashion houses and big-name makeup houses,” said Muhammad. “We’ve had a number of previously scheduled appointments that we had made, but we’ve also had a number of very good ad-hoc appointments and sessions with a lot of clients that have come in.”