PARIS — Giorgio Armani is going East.
This story first appeared in the November 7, 2008 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
The designer and his beauty licensee, L’Oréal, are currently introducing Onde, a trio of oriental fragrances for women meant to have a sensuous slant.
“With Onde, the idea is to play on sensuality and refinement,” said Jean-Pierre Charriton, general manager of Giorgio Armani Parfums, a division of L’Oréal, adding that each fragrance was inspired by a different geographic location — the Middle East, India and Japan.
The collection was conceived for a selective distribution circuit somewhere between those of Armani’s ultraexclusive Armani Privé line and more widely available fragrances such as Acqua di Giò and Armani Code.
“We’re already present in highly exclusive distribution with Privé, which are like haute couture fragrances,” said Charriton. “Onde is the next step.”
The scents’ price points reflect that positioning, at 80 euros, or $103 at current exchange, per 50-ml. spray bottle of eau de parfum and 100 euros, or $129, per 100-ml. version.
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Designed by Armani, each flacon features its own faceted pattern and signature hue. They are also decorated with silk thread tassels. Onde Mystère, for example, incorporates influences from the Middle East. Its musky oriental juice, which was concocted by Maurice Roucel of Symrise, features notes of incense, amber, benzoin, Moroccan rose buds and vanilla absolute. Influenced by India, Onde Vertige’s floral oriental juice, created by Jacques Cavallier and Azniv Buzantian of Firmenich, comprises frangipani flower, black liquorice, patchouli, pittosporum and jasmine petals. A woody oriental, Onde Extase, which was composed by Bruno Jovanovic of International Flavors & Fragrances, meanwhile, is meant to recall Japan. It has notes of cedar, mimosa, Egyptian jasmine, narcissus absolute, pink pepper, Sicilian bergamot, musk and aesame absolute.
Promotional activity for the trio mostly will focus on points of sale, Charriton said. In some markets, an advertising campaign featuring model Jessica Stam and shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott will run as single- or double-page spreads.
Charriton declined to discuss forecasts, however, industry sources believe the Onde troika could generate first-year retail sales in the region of $20 million.
A rollout in Europe kicked off last month. The scents are set to bow in the U.S. and Asia early next year.