LONDON — Burberry is planning to inject its fragrance portfolio with two shots of adrenaline next year when it will introduce the first fragrances linked to its Burberry Sport apparel line.
This story first appeared in the December 11, 2009 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
The British fashion brand and Inter Parfums SA, its beauty license holder, will introduce the masterbrand globally starting in February. The scents will generate first-year wholesale sales globally of 35 million euros, or $52.8 million at current exchange, according to industry source estimates.
“We had the whole world of sport, but we didn’t have the fragrance,” said Christopher Bailey, Burberry’s chief creative officer. He has also designed eyewear, bags, accessories and watches for the brand. “[It’s nice to be] able to see the 360 degrees of [Burberry] Sport.”
That vision, he explained, encompasses a broad understanding of what constitutes sports. “Burberry Sport is not just about technical sports. Yes, we have a very big history in expeditions and aviation and horse riding and skiing,” said Bailey. “It’s about how we can integrate sport into fashion, [too]. That crossover is what we’re doing with the clothes.”
“What we’ve done with Burberry Sport is really different from the rest of the catalogue,” said Philippe Benacin, chairman and chief executive officer of Inter Parfums SA, of the brand’s scent portfolio, which also includes Burberry Brit and The Beat.
For the new fragrances, the sporting theme was incorporated using rubberized materials for packaging, graphic logos, an energetic advertising campaign and zesty juices, according to Bailey. The technical fabrics used to create Burberry Sport apparel, for instance, inspired the rectangular bottles, which have a soft-touch finish and feature the Burberry Sport logo. A red rubber band, which can be worn as a bracelet and recalls labels on Burberry Sport jackets, is wrapped around the fragrances’ outer cartons.
“All the branding goes back to the label of the clothes,” said Bailey, adding he designed the flacons with black pump mechanisms so that their function is visually evident. “I wanted it to feel like it was a sport action even in your hand.”
The Burberry Sport fragrances are the first Bailey has worked on that do not incorporate Burberry’s signature check pattern. “The [Burberry Sport] ready-to-wear is not about check; it’s really about strong graphic branding,” he said. “There are so many different icons in Burberry. You’ve got, yes, the check — but you’ve got the trenchcoat; you’ve got all the quilted coats…you’ve got the actual Burberry Sport; you’ve got the Prorsum horse. We’ve got these different insignias that we use to express these different lines and different attitudes.”
The scents’ advertising, which will run as single pages and double-page spreads, is also meant to channel a sporty energy. Featuring model Lily Donaldson and actor Douglas Booth wearing Burberry Sport apparel, the images were shot by David Sims on a London rooftop.
The juices, too, are meant to pack a high-octane punch. “I wanted it to feel like there was movement in the scent,” said Bailey. “I kept saying I wanted it zingy; I wanted to feel alive; I wanted to feel like it’s jumping.”
That translated into a fresh zesty floral for women and an energizing woody citrus for men. Concocted by Olivier Polge and Béatrice Piquet of IFF, Burberry Sport for Women comprises top notes of mandarin and sea salt. At its heart are magnolia, honeysuckle and petit grain notes, while solar notes, musks and cedar wood are in the dry down.
Givaudan’s Sonia Constant, Nathalie Gracia-Cetto and Antoine Maisondieu blended the Burberry Sport for Men juice. It comprises top notes of frozen ginger, grapefruit and wheatgrass; at its heart are a marine breeze accord, red ginger and juniper berry notes, and dry amber, cedar wood and soft musk notes are in its base.
The eau de toilettes will be available as 30-, 50- and 75-ml. sprays, which will retail in the U.K. for 27 pounds, 38 pounds and 48 pounds, respectively, or $45, $63.40 and $81 at current exchange. Ancillary products include a body lotion and a shower gel for women and aftershave lotion, aftershave balm, shower gel and deodorant for men.