There’s a new flower in the Coach Poppy family — one that could add as much as $50 million at retail globally to the brand’s fragrance sales.

This story first appeared in the June 24, 2011 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

Poppy Flower, designed to explore the romantic side of Coach Poppy, is slated for a July launch in Coach stores and on, and will roll out to department stores in August.

When the Coach fragrance brand launched it was sold only in Coach doors, then the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. — the brand’s scent licensee — took it into about 1,400 department and specialty store doors in North America last year. “We saw the importance of incubating the brand, and always said that we wouldn’t stretch it before it was ready,” said Veronique Gabai-Pinsky, global brand president, Aramis and Designer Fragrances division at Lauder. “It’s now ready to spread its wings even more and to additional doors domestically and internationally.”

Diane Kim, senior vice president of global marketing for Aramis and Designer Fragrances at the Estée Lauder Cos., noted that the new introduction could help expand sales and draw in a new fragrance consumer in Asia as well as in the U.S. “In fact, Poppy Flower was designed especially with the Asian market in mind,” she said.

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Sources estimate 80 percent of Coach’s overall fragrance sales are done in North America. While executives declined comment on the current size of the Coach fragrance business, industry sources estimated that it currently generates worldwide retail sales of about $80 million, and that the brand hopes to grow past the $100 million mark in the next 12 months. Industry sources estimated that of the $50 million global sales projection, about $35 million of that figure would be done in North America.

Concocted by Karyn Khoury, senior vice president of corporate fragrance development worldwide for the Estée Lauder Cos., in cooperation with Firmenich, the citrus fruity floral scent begins with a mix of wet ivy, grapefruit and mandarin; has a heart of jasmine petals, muguet and peony, and the drydown includes sugared raspberry, amberwood, musk and sandalwood.

Eaux de parfum in three sizes — 1 oz. for $45, 1.7 oz. for $65 and 3.4 oz. for $85 — will be sold, as will a 5-oz. body lotion for $22, and a .17-oz. rollerball, $22. At full rollout in the U.S., the scent is expected to be available in about 2,300 doors, including 400 Coach stores. Internationally, it will be available in about 400 doors. National advertising in the U.S. begins in August fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines, and the brand is aiming for upward of 200 million scented impressions, said Kim. Executives declined comment on the advertising and promotional spending, but industry sources estimated the figure at roughly $15 million globally.

“Fragrance, like the handbag you carry, is such a personal choice — so it’s wonderful that the Coach fragrance wardrobe is expanding,” said Kathy Nedorostek, president of U.S. wholesale and global licensing for Coach. “Wherever the Coach woman is around the world, her style will mesh beautifully with Coach Poppy Flower.”

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