Italian fashion house Costume National will introduce its first men’s fragrance, an eau de parfum called Costume National Homme, at Barneys New York next week.
This story first appeared in the November 20, 2009 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
The fragrance is the house’s seventh scent, and the six scents that preceded it have all been unisex. (Costume National’s best-selling fragrance is its first scent, a seven-year-old entry called Intense. Executives noted that 64 percent of the customer base for Intense is men.)
International Flavors & Fragrances perfumer Dominique Ropion composed Costume National Homme, which has top notes of bergamot, grapefruit and cardamom; middle notes of clove, thyme and cinnamon, and a base of amber, sandalwood and patchouli.
“The harmony between natural and rare elements creates an original, sensual and charming fragrance, for an essential and timeless man,” stated Ennio Capasa, creative director of Costume National, which he founded with his brother in 1986.
“Costume National is classical and chic, but it gives a rock ’n’ roll idea,” Andrea Valdo, export manager for Prato, Italy-based Beauty San SpA, Costume National’s fragrance licensee, said of the firm’s clothes, accessories and footwear. “[The fragrance] is clean, chic and simple but the spice gives it a rock ’n’ roll idea. It has a heart of rock ’n’ roll.”
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Beauty San SpA has been Costume National’s fragrance licensee for about three years. Prior to that Kanebo had the license.
Costume National Homme will be launched globally in less than 500 doors, including Printemps, Selfridges and Harvey Nichols, Valdo noted. It will be introduced in the U.S. exclusively at seven Barneys New York locations: Chicago, New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Las Vegas, Dallas and Boston.
Jim Delalla, owner of Abdel, LLC, which is distributing the scent in the U.S., noted that after a six-month exclusive at Barneys, Costume National Homme will be rolled out to between 200 and 300 doors in the U.S.
“The strategy is to stay selective,” said Valdo.
Industry sources estimate the scent could generate first-year retail sales of $2 million in the U.S.
The scent, which will come in 50-ml. and 100-ml. versions for $80 and $110, respectively, has a bottle meant to represent the body of a man, noted Valdo. The bottle, designed by Capasa, has rounded shoulders, and the front of the bottle is concave.
Gray outer packaging was designed to reflect the color palette Capasa uses in his fashion designs, which includes grays, blacks, whites and blues.