BERLIN — With a new floral-amber Jil Sander scent simply called Jil, the designer’s fragrance licensee, Coty Inc., is taking a cue from the fashion house’s new direction under Raf Simons.
This story first appeared in the August 20, 2009 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
“He brought a lot to the fashion house obviously,” said Caroline Javoy, Coty’s group vice president for Balenciaga, Chloé and Jil Sander Fragrances. “But what for me is stunning is the femininity injected with the dresses. We wanted to have a fragrance that could embody this new energy, this new generation of the fashion.”
Javoy said the bottle’s clean lines reflect Simons’ geometric-inspired dresses. The pink-colored scent comes in a clear, rectangular glass flacon, which is framed in a color she described as the “deepest blue before black.
“When you have seen it, you have the impression [that] it is glass monolith with a frame around it. But when you have a deeper look, you realize there is a space between the glass and the frame,” she commented. “It’s exactly like what Raf Simons does so successfully with the dresses. At first glance, they are extremely simple, but more you look the more you see subtle details that makes the beauty of them.”
Javoy added that the new launch is a way to freshen up the Jil Sander fragrance portfolio: “What we want to do is rejuvenate the target. And we want to bring this kind of light-hearted spirit, energy, movement and dynamism that maybe we missed in the previous fragrances.”
For Coty Prestige, the launch of Jil is also about making inroads into Italy, where the Jil Sander fashion label is headquartered, and has fairly good brand recognition. In France, the scent will appear in Jil Sander fashion stores.
Julia Restoin Roitfeld, who has served as art director for V Magazine, Jean Paul Gaultier and other projects, is the face of Jil. The 28-year-old is smiling in the fragrance ads, shot by Jan Welters, in contrast to the usual tranquil, somewhat remote Jil Sander model.
“Jil is like a subtlety between a woman who seems very tough, very confident and, at the same time, a woman who is actually very feminine and fragile,” said Restoin Roitfeld. “That’s also how I feel about myself sometimes and what I wanted to show in the pictures.”
International Flavors & Fragrances perfumers Olivier Polge and Bruno Jovanovic composed Jil, an eau de parfum whose olfactive structure includes notes of pink pepper, tangerine, heliotrope and ambergris.
The scent will come in 30-ml., 50-ml. and 75-ml. versions for 48 euros, or $68.25 at current exchange; 68 euros, or $96.70, and 88 euros, or $125, respectively. There’s also a shower cream (200 ml. for 29 euros, or $41.25), a body lotion (200 ml. for 32 euros, or $45.50) and a deodorant spray (100 ml. for 24 euros, or $34).
This is not the first time the name Jil has been used for a Jil Sander perfume. A previous scent called Jil came on the market in 1997 but has since been discontinued.
Jil launches in Europe, Eastern Europe and Russia Sept. 9. A launch in the U.S. is tentatively planned for Spring 2010 in a limited number of doors.
Although Coty declined to provide sales projections, industry sources estimate Jil could generate between $14 million and $20 million in retail sales during its first 12 months on the market.