DVF Returns to the World of Beauty

PARIS — Diane von Furstenberg has signed a deal with ID Beauty to launch a beauty line, starting with a women’s fragrance this fall.

This story first appeared in the October 8, 2010 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

The collection will ultimately include skin care and color cosmetics, as well.

The project dovetails with von Furstenberg’s general philosophy. She said her mission is “a commitment to empower women. Everything I do in life has to do with how much I am inspired by women, how much I respect women and how much I want every woman to feel strong, beautiful and confident. When you have such an intimate relationship with women there is no way that you can do it more than with the beauty business.

“I have always been interested in the intimacy of the relationship between beauty products and women,” continued von Furstenberg, adding she’s no stranger to the fragrance and cosmetics industry. In the Seventies, for instance, von Furstenberg introduced a scent named Tatiana, plus a makeup line. Then, in 1983, she sold that business to Beecham.

Von Furstenberg said her dream had been to work with Chantal Roos, the former president of YSL Beauté. “I was always so impressed with the quality of the products that she developed,” said von Furstenberg.

For the past year and a half the duo developed the fragrance and together decided ID Beauty would be the partner of choice for the venture.

“We are very excited because I think that Alexandre [Cukier, president and chief executive officer of ID Beauty] and Pierre-Yves [Brézillon, its managing director] understand the intricate complications of fragrance distribution, and also they have an amazing, very advanced, technological skin care brand,” said von Furstenberg, referring to Rexaline, which has three products ranking in Sephora’s top 10 in Europe. “I feel like when you deal in such a huge, unbelievably crazy, competitive market, the only chance you have [comes from] believing in what you do really. And in order to do that, and not compromise, I think you have a better chance when you are a small company. It’s all about respect.”

Roos, who now works full time on the beauty project, agreed with von Furstenberg, saying that respect — starting with the consumer — is key.

“We love to do things the same way,” exclaimed Roos.

Fifteen-year-old ID Beauty has focused on creating high-end, high-tech skin care brands, with AG Labs, and distributing scents and cosmetics internationally. Its partnership with von Furstenberg marks ID Beauty’s first fragrance licensing agreement.

Von Furstenberg said life experience has given her legitimacy in skin care, while color cosmetics is a natural offshoot of her fashion know-how.

“All I want is to make women feel like they can be the women they want to be,” reiterated von Furstenberg. “That message is so strong that now we have to put it in a bottle, in a tube, in a spray, in a jar and in a color.”