BERLIN — The first time’s a charm for German jeweler Thomas Sabo’s entry into the world of fragrance.

This story first appeared in the August 23, 2010 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

The brand is launching a scent, called Charm Rose, this month at Douglas perfumeries in Germany and Austria as well as Thomas Sabo shops.

The eau de parfum includes notes of yellow plum; clementine; Chinese, alpine and musk rose; tonka bean, and rosewood. Its flat, round bottle has a heavy, silver-tone cap and black-and-white stripes painted on its sides, and is adorned with a removable black cord strung with a silver rose medallion, intended to be worn as a bracelet or hair tie.

Outer packaging is designed after a Fifties-style hatbox, and is lined with pink satin. The scent comes in a 50-ml. size for 49 euros, or $62.15 at current exchange. There’ also a scented candle for 29 euros, or $36.78, and a gift set containing the two, priced at 59 euros, or $74.83. A scented lip balm, which will sell for 12 euros, or $15.22, is next up for the brand.

Rather than recruit a celebrity to front the fragrance, Thomas Sabo’s in-house creative staff invented one: Luzy, a hand-drawn gamine in a striped top, designed to give a carefree elegance to the brand. Not surprisingly, she will have her own Facebook page.

“We really wanted to speak to all women — from girls to older women,” stated Susanne Kölbli, creative director at Thomas Sabo. “We developed the scent so that a girl will feel grown-up, ladylike and alluring. And a woman will feel coquettish, like a girl again.”

Charm Rose is being promoted at all Douglas stores in Germany through a major push including window decorations, in-store displays and special staffers who spritz customers.

Industry sources estimate Charm Rose could generate retail sales of 4 million euros, or $5.1 million, during its first year on the market. Douglas foretells the scent will be the “biggest exclusive fragrance launch of the year in Germany.”

The fragrance is the result of a three-year partnership between Thomas Sabo and Rubysense, a German beauty development and marketing firm. Rubysense previously has developed fragrances for the Viva Maria clothing line and Karstadt department store’s Yorn brand, as well as a hair care and styling line with Berlin-based stylist Shan Rahimkhan.

At a Munich launch event for Charm Rose, company founder Thomas Sabo said this was just the first step in extending into the fragrance business. The company plans to widen its efforts in the scent market next year, in a move toward defining itself as a lifestyle brand.

The Thomas Sabo chain, which made its debut in 1984, uses sterling silver, and the brand is known for its spin on the classic charm bracelet — and its 450-piece Charm Club collection. Thomas Sabo designs are carried at 2,700 points of sale, including department stores and stand-alone boutiques, in more than 40 countries.

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