Despite a weak fragrance market, Helmut Lang thinks it has a hit on its hands with the forthcoming relaunch of its three signature fragrances.
This story first appeared in the October 10, 2014 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
The brand introduced its first two scents Eau de Parfum and Eau de Cologne, created by Maurice Roucel at Symrise in 2000. Both open with lavender and rosemary and dry down to cedarwood, vanilla, musk and amber — but the parfum is more concentrated than the cologne.
“It’s reminiscent of the smell of sheets after a man’s been with someone,” said Roucel. “It’s sensual, but in a very refined way.” Helmut Lang’s third fragrance Cuiron, a bright leathery mixture by Givaudan, made its debut in 2002. The company stopped producing all three potions in 2005, resulting in a limited supply and high prices in the secondary market.
During these unsteady times at Helmut Lang — its creative directors Michael and Nicole Colovos stepped down in February and have yet to be replaced — the fragrances provide an opportunity to revisit an signature moment for the brand. A spokesman conceded that the fragrance brand has been absent from the market for a decade but insists that it still has a following.
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The three scents will only be available in 100-ml. sizes and will retail at $185 each for the Eau de Parfum and Eau de Cologne. Cuiron will be priced at $165. Though the brand declined to comment, industry sources expect sales to reach $2 million in the first year. The three fragrances will be available at Helmut Lang stores and at helmutlang.com beginning Oct. 10.