The majority of judges gave this scent high praise for its fusion of floral and oriental notes — an “unexpected balance” that proved bold and captivating. Still, a few found the composition sour and confusing.
“The white flowers at the opening are excellent, and then we enter into something sexy, animal and oriental.”
This story first appeared in the February 3, 2016 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
“An interesting and memorable composition.”
“Unctuous and heady. Daring and glamorous…oozes natural tuberose, spices and just the right amount of wrong to make it interesting.”
“Bizarre and unattractive, nothing to it [and] very synthetic. Smells like a cheap fabric softener.”
“An elegant cocktail: Green as floral buttonhole, shaken with a touch of juniper and served in a cedar bowl.”
“This big white floral that is stabbed through the heart with herbal and cumin notes paints a stunning portrait of a fragrance with personality of the truest sense.”
“It gets better with time, and [I] like the unexpected balance.”
“Mentholated white floral…smells like stale aircraft air.”
“A unique minty effect cutting through a French Cartier-Declaration-style elegance, combined with a surprising woody animalistic-stablelike note. Try and you will travel.”
“I don’t think I’ve ever worn anything that evolved and morphed so rapidly on my skin, veering off into various directions of unrelated smells.”
ABOUT THE TEST AND JUDGES: This is a blind test, panelists are given vials of unidentified scent to judge impartially. Each of them gives a score ranging from 1 (forgettable) to 10 (unforgettable) and the numbers are computed into a final grade. The judges, led by chairman Michael Edwards, also make critiques, which are unattributed to encourage candor. The most promising scents are picked for judging in an effort to find and showcase excellence. WWD buys the products at retail, like any other consumer. The esteemed judges are: Michael Edwards, author of “Fragrances of the World” and “Perfume Legends”; Paul Austin, chief executive officer of sensory storytelling agency Austin Advisory Group; Jean-Claude Delville, senior perfumer at Drom; Karen Dubin, founder and ceo of Sniffapalooza; Victoria Frolova, fragrance industry analyst and Bois de Jasmin editor; Christophe Laudamiel, master perfumer at DreamAir; Nathalie Pichard, owner of training and evaluation agency Topnotes; Chantal Roos, cocreator of Roos & Roos Co.; Luca Turin, biophysicist and perfume critic for arabia.style.com, and Kevin Verspoor, founder of PerfumeKev LLC.