While one judge seemed to appreciate the complex nature of the scent and another enjoyed “the fun ride,” others on the panel couldn’t cope with what they saw as a jarring combination.
“Clever, complex, compact, oddly inscrutable fresh-metallic-milky accord. Very nice work.”
Score: 7
“The fragrance is a chameleon on me — every time I wear it I smell something completely different. An elusive and puzzling fragrance that leaves me unsatisfied.”
Score: 3
“Fizzy lemonade-like opening, bright accord with a curious crunchy green note, soft finish. The ending could have been more exciting, but high marks for the fun ride.”
Score: 7
“This is a very unusual and quite strange perfume. I get some notes that smell as if the perfume has turned bad.”
Score: 3
“Memorable, spicy top note. Fades quickly.”
Score: 5
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“Unattractive and overwhelming floral combination.
Score: 3.5
“The whole impression is chemical, full of too many ingredients, which makes it confusing.”
Score: 2
“An understated green bouquet that sings softly, very soft on the skin.”
Score: 6.6
“A sharp, harsh, green metallic garlic scent in a chemical floral structure which is unfortunately…powerful. Who can wear that?”
Score: 2.5
ABOUT THE TEST AND JUDGES: This is a blind test, panelists are given vials of unidentified scent to judge impartially. Each of them gives a score ranging from 1 (forgettable) to 10 (unforgettable) and the numbers are computed into a final grade. The judges, led by chairman Michael Edwards, also make critiques, which are unattributed to encourage candor. The most promising scents are picked for judging in an effort to find and showcase excellence. WWD buys the products at retail, like any other consumer. The esteemed judges are: Michael Edwards, author of “Fragrances of the World” and “Perfume Legends”; Paul Austin, chief executive officer of sensory storytelling agency Austin Advisory Group; Jean-Claude Delville, senior perfumer at Drom; Karen Dubin, founder and ceo of Sniffapalooza; Victoria Frolova, fragrance industry analyst and Bois de Jasmin editor; Christophe Laudamiel, master perfumer at DreamAir; Nathalie Pichard, owner of training and evaluation agency Topnotes; Chantal Roos, cocreator of Roos & Roos Co.; Luca Turin, biophysicist and perfume critic for arabia.style.com, and Kevin Verspoor, founder of PerfumeKev LLC.