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The Smell Test: Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle Cologne Indélébile

A majority of judges favored this summery scent, noting it was beautifully composed and fresh. But on the other end of the spectrum, some felt it was “very simple” and “nothing new under the sun.”

A majority of judges favored this summery scent, noting it was beautifully composed and fresh. But on the other end of the spectrum, some felt it was “very simple” and “nothing new under the sun.”

“A nicely crafted, sparkling eau de cologne that borders on boring. There doesn’t seem to be anything new or newsworthy about this scent.”

“A very lovely departure, very cologne, with fresh and happy notes — quite exquisite. Too bad the base notes are not as good. The drydown is deceptive.”

“Ah, eau de cologne reinterpreted. Beautifully balanced, marvelously fresh yet tenacious.”

“This is a lovely, well-composed rendition of the classic orange blossom scent. What it lacks in uniqueness and creative innovation is made up for in a longlasting, distinctly feminine fragrance that immediately transports me to Tuscany.”

“Harsh, acidic top notes, clean drydown.”

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“A pretty, USA, white, creamy, solar, cosmetic, green floral. Good but already seen: Back to the Nineties.”

“It smells a bit like a glorified Coppertone fragrance. The background lasts for many hours with a very smooth yet powdered effect of the musks and light sweet notes. Although very simple in its construction, the wear is a pleasant one and easy to understand.”

“Very summery, fresh and crisp, a cocktail of orange flower, juicy mandarin, verbena and tuberose. I like the clean solar musk signature, however, it’s nothing new under the sun.”

“I was in a Sicilian orange blossom festooned fantasy until this perfume hit the ground, or rather, the raspy laundry musk base. Great start, rough landing.”

“An easy citrus cologne with not much else around the clean orange flower note, apart from a watery jasmine note, a dissonant tarlike ambery note and a common white musk background. Maybe a bit of sexy coconut would have made it more original and real cute to wear at the beach.”

 

ABOUT THE TEST AND JUDGES: This is a blind test, panelists are given vials of unidentified scent to judge impartially. Each of them gives a score ranging from 1 (forgettable) to 10 (unforgettable) and the numbers are computed into a final grade. The judges, led by chairman Michael Edwards, also make critiques, which are unattributed to encourage candor. The most promising scents are picked for judging in an effort to find and showcase excellence. WWD buys the products at retail, like any other consumer. The esteemed judges are: Michael Edwards, author of “Fragrances of the World” and “Perfume Legends”; Paul Austin, chief executive officer of sensory storytelling agency Austin Advisory Group; Jean-Claude Delville, senior perfumer at Drom; Karen Dubin, founder and ceo of Sniffapalooza; Victoria Frolova, fragrance industry analyst and Bois de Jasmin editor; Christophe Laudamiel, master perfumer at DreamAir; Nathalie Pichard, owner of training and evaluation agency Topnotes; Chantal Roos, cocreator of Roos & Roos Co.; Luca Turin, biophysicist and perfume critic for arabia.style.com, and Kevin Verspoor, founder of PerfumeKev LLC.