At Tranoï New York come September, fragrance will rent a room in fashion’s house.
Tranoï Parfums New York will be held concurrently with the Tranoï New York women’s and men’s wear fashion trade show at The Tunnel during market week from Sept. 17 to 19. Tranoi New York is the little sister to the long-running Parisian Tranoï flagship exhibition, known for championing avant-garde and Indie fashion lines.
“Retailers were asking for something different,” said Marco Pili, director of international operations for Tranoï. He noted that as the fashion cycle becomes difficult to plan around, lifestyle concept stores are a growing trend. “A total [fashion] collection is so hard, because the seasons are getting crazy all over the world — summer is not summer [anymore] — and [retailers] want to be different. They want to [offer] something else [other than] fashion.”
Perfume and home fragrance brands have been among the vendors at previous Tranoï New York shows, but this will be the first time in which a selection of some 40 labels will be grouped in their own designated space within the New York exhibition. Tranoï Parfums launched at the Paris show in January. The Parfums show here will highlight niche labels, many of them still in the beginning stages of their businesses, but some brands buyers may recognize — By Coolife, Lalique, Arquiste Parfumeur, Belle Fleur New York, Fornasetti Profumi, Olfactive Studio and Lafco among them.
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David Hadida, chief executive officer of Tranoï, emphasized the importance of uniqueness for brands and the importance of discovery for buyers at the show. “If you have an identity, this is the most important [factor],” said Hadida of the fragrance brands selected to appear at Tranoï. He noted that the buyers who flock to Tranoï typically work for small luxury boutique retailers and they are looking for special, upscale products. His advice to vendors was to “bring the best pieces — try to catch the buyers eye in another way [without the full collection].” Quality is important, he stressed, but price is mostly not an issue for the attending buyers.
When talking about identity, Hadida pointed out Mad et Len, a niche fragrance house based in Southern France that makes candles, oils and parfums. It is important, he noted, for brands to have an interesting story if they want to stand out. “The vessels are made by hand, the wax is pant-based and organic, the perfume is made in small batches,” Hadida said. “Everything is done in house. They live like monks.”
Fornasetti, likely to be recognized by the fashion crowd attending the show, is another example Hadida cited as a brand with a unique identity.
Hadida and Pili acknowledge that the Parfums may draw buyers from perfume stores, bit they are mostly banking on the fashion buyers already in attendance being interested in exploring new categories. “It’s another direction in dressing — an outfit isn’t complete without [scent],” Pili said. “Every good concept store today needs a touch of perfume.”
Hadida is well-versed in the art of retail concept stores. He is the son of Armand Hadida, who opened the L’Eclaireur concept store in Paris in 1980. The store opened its new location on Robertson Boulevard in Los Angeles this summer. The elder Hadida serves as artistic director for Tranoï.