BOLOGNA, Italy — Green comes in many guises when it comes to beauty products these days. That was a key takeaway from the most recent session of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, which ran from March 15 to 19 and where natural and cosmetics products were very much on the rise.
There, brands were showcasing green products targeting specific demographics like never before, including children, men and athletes. Some labels eschewed water in their formulations and instead used ingredients such as tea infusion or fruit and plant extracts. Others centered their beauty experience around rituals meant to generate well-being, both physical and mental. Here, a look at some of innovative brands spotted.
Founder: Mariella Talamo
Home base: Monza, Italy
Year founded: 2017
Description: This Made in Italy brand produces certified natural and waterless skin care and makeup. Its concept is to make organic beauty products appealing with their packaging and formulations boasting a high percentage of vitamin-rich ingredients. These include fruit juices and plant extracts, such as pomegranate, kiwi, coconut, marula, wakame seaweed and sesame.
The skin-care line features body creams, lotions and scrubs, and odor-free face products for every skin type. It ranges from moisturizing cream, retailing for 29 euros, to antiaging options, for 38 euros. The complete makeup collection counts 12 products coming in a wide variety of shades, making for a total of 52 units.
The brand is mainly distributed in Italy, retailing in selective perfumeries such as Mazzolari and Douglas, in addition to pharmacies. Next up, B.Kos will hit Marionnaud shelves and roll out through its own online store.
Key products: B.Crema Viso Idratante moisturizing cream with wakame seaweed, B.Crema Viso Anti-Età antiage cream and B.Olio Prezioso face oil.
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Founder: Keren Trabelsi
Home Base: Cape Town, South Africa
Year founded: 2008
Description: Spa owner Keren Trabelsi launched the Bellabaci brand to bring cupping therapy into her clients’ homes. The label’s first and signature products are soft silicone cups to be used with the waterless Genie in a Bottle range of treatment oils. Those address common concerns such as cellulite, damaged skin, stretch marks, muscular pains, varicose veins and circulation issues.
The brand’s latest addition is the Bellabaci Sport range, including three lotions to be used before and after gym sessions.
The brand is distributed worldwide, including in South Africa, Italy, Switzerland, Austria, the U.K, the U.S., Saudi Arabia, Canada, Japan and Australia. Its products are available through Bellabaci’s online store, as well.
Key products: The Bellabaci Sport range, including the Fire Up pre-workout lotion, the Cool Down muscle recovery lotion and the SOS repair ointment.
Founder: Minos Zarifopoulos
Home Base: Athens
Year founded: 2015
Description: Combining the name of the Greek poet Homer and the French word for man, “homme,” the Hommer cosmetics brand manufactures beard-grooming products based on natural ingredients — such as hemp, barbary fig, argan and hazelnut oils — and enhanced with a scent mixing woody, bitter chocolate and vetiver notes.
After debuting with the Beard Shampoo, Beard Oil and Beard Wipes, the range was expanded with styling products, including the Hommer Balmade and the Matte Paste for hair and mustaches, which contain hemp oil, beeswax, carnauba wax and castor oil.
Following the launch of two scents, the brand this year unveiled a shaving range with a pre-shave oil, shaving cream and two antiaging after-shave balms, featuring vegetable taurine and Tremella mushroom, a natural replacement for hyaluronic acid.
Hommer is distributed in Greece, France, Germany, Spain, Switzerland and Scandinavia. Its products are also available on the brand’s e-commerce site, which provides worldwide shipping.
Key products: Hommer Beard Shampoo and Beard Wipes with hemp oil, and the new Antiaging After Shave Balm Long Journey.
Brand: Lesielle Cosmetics
Founder: Rubén Rubiales Vázquez
Home Base: Jerez de la Frontera, Spain
Year founded: 2016
Description: Spanish pharmacist Rubén Rubiales Vázquez was in Switzerland when he realized that finding the perfect skin-care product for himself was a difficult task, usually resulting in the purchase and combination of different, expensive creams. So in March 2016 he decided to create a single tool able to produce all types of skin-care products, thereby minimizing costs and ecological footprints, and making personalization more affordable.
Rubiales Vázquez and his team developed a small machine able to produce made-to-measure skin care quickly. How it works is a Lesielle base product is chosen according to each person’s skin type and favorite texture, and then between one and four treatment products are added to that.
Altogether, there are 16 treatments available that are divided into six categories, such as antiaging, antioxidants, redness, imperfections, care and protection, acne and tone. Once the base and active ingredients flacons are introduced into the machine, with the press of a button a single dose of customized skin care pops out instantaneously.
Distribution for Lesielle Adaptive Skin Care will start in Europe in October. The machine is to retail at 85 euros, while a set of five products, including a base and four active ingredients good for 70 doses — or a five-week treatment — will be priced at 35 euros.
Key products: Lesielle Adaptive Skin Care.
Founders: Anna Semenzato and Roberto Bonfanti
Home Base: Bologna, Italy
Year founded: 2018
Description: After contributing to the launch of several beauty startups, Anna Semenzato decided to partner with formulator Roberto Bonfanti to found their own cosmetics brand Oliorito. The label’s concept revolves around the idea that rituals are the means to boost one’s own self-awareness and physical and mental well-being.
For this reason, they developed a range including a trio of natural oils and a brush to be used in a three-step process. Inspired by ancient recipes and Etruscan cosmetics traditions, Oliorito formulas are obtained through long maceration processes, during which organic medicinal plants soak in pure oils under the sun.
The range includes Cautha, which aims to reduce tensions in the body and mind with a mix of olive oil, lavender and saffron flowers. Semia has regenerating and soothing properties, thanks to its blend of hazelnut oil, myrrh and vanilla extracts. And Thesan is meant to stimulate physical movement and thought with camphor, marjoram and hemp oil.
The line’s distribution will start in Italian perfumeries later this year, as will the launch of Oliorito’s online store. The oils are to retail at 68 euros each, while the Losna brossage brush will be 28 euros. In addition, a Take Off Set comprising the three oils in a 10-ml. format will go for 24 euros.
Key products: The Cautha face, body and hair oil; the Semia body and hair oil, and the Thesan body oil.
Brand: Teaology Tea Infusion Skincare
Founder: Paolo Bevegni
Home Base: Monza, Italy
Year founded: 2015
Description: This natural brand, which is made in Italy, has approximately 30 products for face and body formulated with tea infusion, rather than water. The infusion is produced using a newly patented technology billed to keep tea’s antiaging and antioxidant powers at a high level in cosmetics preparations. Five different types of teas are used in the line, including white tea and blue tea, from China and Japan. Teaology is now sold in stores in about 20 countries worldwide. Online selling kicks off in April via teaologyskincare.com.
Key products: Include Green Tea Detox Face Scrub and White Tea Miracle Drops.
Brand: Vivaio Days
Founders: Elina Lampaki and Marios Stamatelopoulos
Home Base: Santa Monica, Calif.
Year founded: 2018
Description: Vivaio Days is a natural cosmetics line conceived for babies, kids and moms. The project originated from Vivaiodays.com, an e-tailer for sustainable goods and gifts for kids that also funds child education initiatives in Latin America, India, Uganda and Kenya.
The brand’s founders Elina Lampaki and Marios Stamatelopoulos, each with 20-year experience in the beauty business, got the idea of developing their web site’s namesake cosmetics line during a trip in Borneo, where they noticed kids with faces covered in a yellow paste made of turmeric blended with other natural ingredients effective for sun protection. They then created their first Turmeric Broad Spectrum Sunscreen product and decided to create a broader line with other items based on centuries-old healing remedies from around the world. These include natural elements such as olive oil from Greece, apricot oil from India and rose geranium leaves from Africa.
Produced in Europe, Vivaio Days will hit shelves in the U.S. in the next couple of months, where it will retail at Anthropologie stores and indie beauty shops such as Credo and The Detox Market.
Key products: Olive Oil All-Purpose Rescue Balm Gel, Rose Geranium Cleansing Water and Turmeric Broad Spectrum Sunscreen.
Founder: Koichi Seta
Home Base: Tokyo
Year founded: 2011
Description: Warew emphasizes the importance of having a healthy skin. All of the skin-care label’s items are derived from 95 percent natural elements and more than 90 percent ingredients culled from Japan. Their formulations are based on four traditional plant ingredients found domestically — plum, cherry tree bark, pine needles and magnolia bark — that are blended with patented technology into an ingredient called Cell Viable Complex.
At Cosmoprof, the company unveiled its newest, more high-end Sussh line, which was first conceived in 2016 and is also based on a patented technology involving microspheres containing active ingredients and covered with positively charged hyaluronic acid to react with the skin, which is negatively charged. Once the particles penetrate skin, the microspheres open and release active ingredients, which stimulate cells to prevent an enzyme from “chewing up” elastin and regenerate damaged collagen, among other benefits.
Warew is available in Japan, Spain and Italy, where it will also open a flagship in Milan in June. The brand plans to launch in the U.K. and in the United Arab Emirates next.
Key products: Warew Cell Viable Organics Cleansing Oil, Washing Foam and Emulsion Aqua. Sussh Ocean Microbiome Technology Moisturizing Blue Soap, Soothing Eye Cream and Night Regeneration Mask.