View Slideshow
Appeared In
Special Issue
Beauty Inc issue 03/14/2008

A Complete A to Z Guide to the season’s essential people, products and trends.

This story first appeared in the March 14, 2008 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

An apple a day doesn’t only keep the doctor away—it also keeps the beauty blahs at bay. The fruit, richin antioxidants, vitamins and polyphenols, is ideal for protecting the skin and scalp from environmental aggressors and free radicals, while the oil from its seeds contains a multitude of essential fatty acids that are highly moisturizing. Then of course there’s the apple’s distinctive and appealing crisp scent—perfect for warm weather. No wonder it’s one of spring’s star ingredients, be it in a scent, as from Celine Dion and DKNY, to the newest skin brightener from Fresh.

Celine Dion Sensational, $32, J.C.Penney, Kohl’s; J.F. Lazartigue Essential Orange Oil Shampoo, $45,; Salon Selectives Type Hc Hold & Control Hair Spray, $3.50, mass retailers; DKNY Be Delicious Charmingly Delicious, $55, Sephora; Fresh Appleseed Brightening Essence, $95, Barneys, Saks.

While mere mortals may not wish to rise to the heights seen on the runway, volume and texture have replaced straight and sleek in spring’s style lexicon. Big hair is just a spritz away with Nexxus’ 360 Volume Bodifying Finishing Mist, which features a continuous spray from any angle (even upside down), while Bumble and bumble’s Spray de Mode contains a unique combination of polymers for strength and flexibility. Frédéric Fekkai’s All-Day Hair Plump utilizes hyaluronate humectants to plump the hair cuticle, while Oscar Blandi’s Lacca Hairspray for Volume & Hold delivers just that, thanks to panthenol, which thickens, and sugar, for extra hold.

You May Also Like

Oscar Blandi Lacca, $24, Sephora; Bumble and bumble Spray de Mode, $25, select salons; Nexxus Salon Hair Care 360 Volume, $9.99, mass retailers; Frédéric Fekkai All-Day Hair Plump, $95, Neiman Marcus.


Cream eye shadows are de rigueur for spring, replacing fall’s must-have powders with a lighter burst of texture and color. “Cream shadows are easy to use and give a fresh display of color,” says
Yves Saint Laurent Beauté’s artistic advisor Val Garland. “The light texture is perfect for spring.” Unlike prior incarnations, the new crop of cream formulas is long-wearing. Most contain special silicones and gel emollients that keep the color on your lids and won’t crease or smudge, even in warm weather. Says Garland, “It’s a fresh look and feel—just what you’d expect for the season.”

01 L’Oreal Paris HIP Cream Shadow Paint in Lofty, $12, mass retailers.

02 Jane Iredale  Eye Gloss in Wine Silk, Green Silk, $15,

03 Laura Mercier Creme Eye Colour Duo in Enchantment, $28, Neiman Marcus, Saks.

04 Yves Saint Laurent Eye Colour Touch in No. 4 Glazed Brown, $27.50, Yves Saint Laurent counters.

05 Clinique Quick Eyes Cream Shadow in Sunlit Palm, $15, Clinique counters.

Trichologist and hair guru Philip Kingsley formulated this scent-free, color-free shampoo and conditioner while his wife Joan was undergoing cancer treatment. The absence of strong surfectants and parabens makes it the perfect choice for those with sensitive, delicate or easily-irritated scalps, as does the donation that’s made to Look Good Feel Better for every bottle sold.

Phlip Kingsley No Scent No Colour Shampoo and Conditioner, $9.75 and $12.25,

That exfoliating is a must is a given. That all exfoliators are created equal isn’t. Standouts this season include Avon’s new Clinical Advanced Dermabrasion System. The dual-chamber tube allows for multistrength exfoliation in one package: Week one, for example, dial up to level one; week eight, go for the full shazaam at level four. No matter the level, aluminum oxide crystals resurface, polyethylene beads refine, polymers condition. Meanwhile, Neutrogena’s Healthy Skin Rejuvenator uses single-dose puffs with ultrafine crystals and microvibrations delivered through the (water-resistant) applicator. Weleda takes a more natural approach with its Birch Body Scrub. Beeswax, carnauba wax and castor oil wax have been formualted into round beads that massage the skin and rid it only of dead skin cells, while birch leaves help detoxify.

Weleda Birch Body Scrub, $15, Walgreens, Whole Foods; Neutrogena Healthy Skin Rejuvenator, $39.99, mass retailers; Avon Anew Clinical Advanced Dermabrasion System, $28,

Heavy foundations don’t cut it once the weather warms up. Here, eight great new options to give a glow on the go

01 Revlon Custom Creations Foundation
Dual chambers—light on one side, darker on the other—and an adjustable dial means this foundation can take you from spring’s pale visage to summer’s golden glow. ($13.99; mass retailers)

02 CK Calvin Klein Beauty Infinite Matte Oil-Free Foundation
From the master of minimalism comes a maximalist formula with white tea, gotu kola and vitamins E and C to fight free radicals and peptides to stimulate collagen. ($32; Dilliards, Macy’s,

03 Chanel Mat Lumière Long-Lasting Soft Matte Makeup SPF 15
Silicone polymers blended with spherical powders maximize staying power while minimizing a heavy, mask-like finish. ($52; Chanel counters)

04 MAC Mineralize SPF 15 Foundation/Loose
MAC’s cult mineral powder, now in loose form, combines vitamins C and E to soothe, yeast and wheat germ to condition. SPF 15 protects the gorgeous results. ($29; MAC counters)

05 Cover Girl TruBlend Liquid Makeup
Multitonal pigments provide undetectable coverage, while a water-based formula leaves skin feeling smooth. ($7.99; mass retailers)

06 Prescriptives Custom Blend Tinted Moisturizer
Custom-blended tinted moisturizer that delivers just enough coverage and conditioning but not too much? If a better idea exists for spring, we haven’t heard it yet. ($48.50; select Prescriptives counters)

07  Estee Lauder Double Wear
Light Stay-In-Place Makeup SPF 10
Light is the key word in this sheer-yet-long-lasting formula, which uses special breathable polymers, low levels of water-resistant pigments and color-true titanium dioxide to achieve its mission. ($32.50; Estee Lauder counters)

08 Lancome Color Ideal Hydra Compact Precise Match Skin Perfecting Cream Makeup SPF 10
Color-true pigments combined with glycerin and balanced water results in a flawless—and lightweight—finish. ($50; Bloomingdale’s, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Saks)

Known for their variety and hardiness, geraniums are in full bloom this spring. In skin care, the flower is prized for its ability to renew the skin. “We wanted to use it because of its amazing restorative properties,” says Laura Mercier, whose Flawless Skin Eye Serum includes geranium. “It’s an antiwrinkle agent that organizes cellular turnover allowing for the individual cells to be shed at an even and optimal rate.” Malin + Goetz combines the extract with a pure cleansing agent for a refreshing and balancing soap, while Origins adds it into Dr. Andrew Weil’s proprietary mushroom mix in Plantidote Mega-Mushroom Treatment Lotion. Oh—and geraniums smell good too, as Jennifer Lopez, who included them in her new garden-based scent Deseo, can no doubt attest to.

Jennifer Lopez Deseo, $46, Macy’s; Dr. Andrew Weil for Origins Plantidote Mega-Mushroom Treatment Lotion, $30, Origins counters; Laura Mercier Flawless Skin Eye Serum, $80, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom; Malin + Goetz Geranium Body Wash, $18, Barneys New York, Malin + Goetz.


Hair maestro Sally Hershberger commands $800 for a haircut, but now the hoi polloi can emulate her signature style. Supreme Head, her new line of hair care and styling products, bowed in Walgreens earlier this year. Star items include Style Primer, a hair foundation designed to boost the performance of styling products, and Shagg (Hershberger’s signature cut) Spray, which is applied to dry hair to create soft sexy layers. Even more innovative, though, is the line’s interactive component: Type in a product’s bar code number at, and up pops a video of the stylist herself explaining how to use it. “I’m a firm believer that 50 percent of hair looking good is product,” says Hershberger. “Even if you have a great cut, you need great products to give it guts.”

Sally Hershberger Supreme Head, $9.50-$12.50, Walgreens


Leave it to a Brazilian to teach us a thing or two about sexiness. São Paulo-based designer Isabela Capeto’s signature scent is as sexy as the quirky designs she’s known for in her homeland. Housed in a flaming red button-faced doll flacon, the fragrance features warm notes of cardamom, bay leaf, pink pepper, cinnamon, apricot and Brazilian lily melded with manly undertones of vetiver, cedar and sandalwood for an unusual—and seductive—aroma.

Isabela Capeto Perfume, $80, Henri Bende

Rich in exotic botanicals, the Amazon is a no-brainer for sourcing efficacious natural ingredients. This season, a multitude of brands made a run for the jungle as nuts, flowers and berries of all kind pop up in everything from shampoo to blush. The hot ingredient of the moment, antioxidant rich acai berry, is the free radical-fighting feature ingredient in Tarte’s Full Blossom Cheek Stain and Fresh’s Sugar Acai Age-Delay Body Cream. In May L’Occitane will introduce a new sun care line using organic buriti nut oil, which has a natural SPF of 3 and boosts the protection factor of titanium dioxide. Meanwhile the Body Shop pumps up hair with its volumizing Guarana Berry line and Bobbi Brown infuses her new Creamy Lip Color with ultramoisturizing cupuacu butter. Rounding out the South American love affair, Boots’ Amazon Forest range makes the most of the rain forest’s bounty with a 10-item line utilizing Brazil nut, babassu, mango, passionflower and cupuacu.

Bobbi Brown Creamy Lip Color, $22, Bobbi Brown counters; Boots Amazon Forest Brazil Nut & Vanilla Body Wash, $6.99, Target; L’Occitane do Brasil Buriti Sunscreen Veil SPF 30, $22, L’Occitane; The Body Shop Guarana Berry Volumizing Shampoo, $9.50, The Body Shop; Fresh Sugar Acai Age-Delay Body Cream, $65, Fresh; Tarte Full Blossom Cheek Stain, $28, Sephora.


Hot on the heels of opening a new Las Vegas salon, celebrity stylist and master colorist Kim Vo is launching an eponymous hair care range this spring. Featuring boken, a Vietnamese botanical, as a star ingredient, the line draws inspiration from Vo’s roots. “My mother was using boken she bought in a farmer’s market and I discovered it was a natural silicon that adds an amazing shine to hair,” says the Los Angeles-based Vo. Other Asian-sourced ingredients include the Japanese seaweed wakame, used as a shield against UV pollution in shampoos, and Chinese cabbage and tung, included for their shine-inducing and conditioning properties.

Kim Vo Perfect Polish, $55, Sculpting Shaper, $23, and Volumizing Shampoo, $22, Barneys New York.

Talk about the speed of light: Luster 1 Hour White is a three-piece, over-the-counter kit that claims to whiten teeth up to six shades in as little as one hour. It’s quick if not a bit cumbersome: First, users rinse with a special mouthwash to prepare teeth for lightening; next comes the whitening gel, which is brushed on each tooth. Finally, users blast teeth for two minutes with a Space Age-looking light that reportedly activates the gel, allowing for faster penetration and hence, faster whitening. The three-step process needs to be performed 10 to 20 times in a row for optimum whitening—giving new meaning to the idea of rinse and repeat.

Luster 1 Hour White, $39.99, Rite Aid.


The steady march of mineral makeup into the beauty aisle shows no signs of slowing down this season. Maybelline New York, Wet ‘n’ Wild, Prestige and N.Y.C. Cosmetics are all launching new lines, while Aveda, Laura Mercier and Jane are expanding theirs. Physicians Formula is upping the ante with a certified organic cosmetics line called Organic Wear. What’s new this season? Wet ‘n’ Wild’s Beauty Benefits line went deep-sea fishing for its marine-based minerals, which have detoxifying and antiaging properties, while Prestige’s Skin Loving Minerals features a cocktail of vitamins, minerals and plant extracts to heal, moisturize and defend.

01 N.Y.C. Cosmetics Smooth Mineral Loose Blush Powder with SPF 12 in Almost Apricot, $6.99, mass retailers 02 Laura Mercier Mineral Eye Colour in Graphite, $20, Bloomingdale’s 03 Prestige Shimmering Trios Mineral Eyeshadow Dust in Rose Crystal, $11.95, mass retailers 04 Jane Be Pure Mineral Eye Lighter Shadow in Rose Quartz, $5.99, mass retailers 05 Aveda Nourish-Mint Sheer Mineral Lip Color in Sheer Roseleaf, $14, Aveda stores, spas & salons 06 Wet ‘n’ Wild Beauty Benefits Triple Fusion Eye Shadow in Sandy Beach, $5.99, mass retailers 07 Maybelline New York Mineral Power Powder Blush in Gentle Pink, $8.99, mass retailers 08 Physicians Formula Organic Wear 100% Natural Origin Matte Finishing & Bronzing Veil in Translucent Organics, $13.95, mass retailers.

Although the neck gives away one’s age as powerfully as the hands, when it comes to treatment products, the region has been sorely neglected. This spring, two cosmeceutical brands hope to recitfy that. Because the neck ages due to movement such as stretching and twisting, Kinerase Neck Repair Cream SPF 15 combines the brand’s signature kinetin ingredient with algae extract and pullulan, a polymer that is said to strengthen the connective tissue by increasing the formation of collagen. Isomers Uncircle Neck Firming Treatment uses matrixyl plus botanicals such as wheat, barley and arnica to speed the creation of collagen in the region.

Kinerase Revolutionary Neck Repair Cream SPF 15, $130, Nordstrom, Sephora, Ulta,,,; Isomers Uncircle Neck Firming Treatment, $40, Sephora


From Carolina Herrera to Katy Rodriguez, orange ruled the spring runways. It’s a quirky color whose time has come. “It’s not all about pink anymore,” says Chad Hayduk, co-founder of 3 Custom Color. “Orange isn’t as hard to pull off as many people think. About 75 percent of the global market is warm complected, and orange-based tones look terrific on these skin tones.

01 Sisley Paris Hydrating Long-Lasting Lipstick in Mandarin, $52, Saks.

02 Hourglass Cosmetics Extreme Sheen Lipgloss in nectar, $28, Sephora.

03 Cover Girl outlast all-day lipcolor in red cashmere, $9.50, mass retailers.

04 Rimmel London Spin It Multi-Layered Lip Gloss Trio in stir crazy, $6.95, mass retailers.

05 Tracy Reese for Sally Hansen Salon Nail Lacquer in Spicy Scarlet, $6, mass retailers.

06 L’Oreal Paris HIP shine struck Lipquid lipcolor in precarious, $12, mass retailers.

07 3 Custom Color Lip and Cheek Stain in Poppy, $20.50,, 888-262-7714.

As one of nature’s most powerful antioxidants, pomegranate has become a perennial favorite for skin care formulators. Wei East uses the fruit in its purest form, as buffing grains, for its new exfoliator, while Joshi’s Holstic Skincare blends it with rose hip oil, vitamin E and grapefruit essential oil in its Protection Day Cream. The result is an effective daily moisturizer that doesn’t feel heavy on the skin. Others blend it with additional antioxidants for a powerful protective punch, as in Organix Pomegranate Green Tea Conditioner and Borba Nutriceutical Lip Tints, which combine pomegranate, acai and grape seed for the ultimate in free radical fighting.

Borba Nutraceutical Lip Tint, $16,; Joshi’s Holistic Skincare Protection Day Cream, $48, Space NK; Grassroots Pomegranate Super Anti-Oxidant Cream, $29.50, Kohl’s; Wei East Pomegranate Buffing Grains, $26,; Philosophy Gratitude Shower and Bath Gelee, $20, Sephora; Pure & Natural Grapefruit & Pomegranate Cleansing Bar, $3.99, mass retailers; Organix Pomegranate Green Tea Conditioner, $6.99, Target.

No more waiting around to solve your beauty woes. These Quickie DIY products will fix you up in a jiff.

Jergens Natural Glow Express Body Moisturizer
Kiss pasty skin goodbye with this self-tanning moisturizer that gives skin a sun-kissed glow in just three days, half the time of the original blockbuster formula. ($7.99; mass retailers)

Clean & Clear Soft Steam  In-Shower Facial
Clogged pores don’t stand a chance against this purifying treatment that uses clay, white tea, fruit acids and glycolic acid to exfoliate, clarify and moisturize in just one minute. ($6.99; mass retailers)

Crest Whitestrips Daily Whitening Plus Tartar Protection
Got five minutes? Then you’ve got a healthier smile with this new take on the classic strip, which reportedly brightens and protects your teeth from tartar buildup and stains. ($39.99; mass retailers)

Meridian Bikini Rescue
Soothe irritated post-hair removal skin with this tea tree oil, aloe vera and witch hazel concoction said to calm skin and prevent razor bumps and ingrown hairs. ($32; Henri Bendel)

Sleeping Beauty had the right idea. Deep slumber not only keeps you feeling refreshed and relaxed, it also wards off tired skin and puffy eyes. As if that’s not reason enough to get your eight hours, these stylish sleep masks are so chic, you won’t want Prince Charming to kiss you back into consciousness.

Cris Notti Orange Jungle and Blooming Rose Sleep Masks, $25 each,; Bath by Bettijo Aromatherapy Zebra Sleep Mask, $19.50,


Talk about a bright idea: Shine happy glosses and lipsticks in bright, Pop Art shades are dominating makeup counters this spring. On the lipstick front, there’s Shu Uemura’s Rouge Unlimited Crystal Shine, an updated version of its signature lipsticks dipped in light-reflecting pearls, Dior’s Addict High Shine Lipstick for the ultimate in shimmer and Clé de Peau Beauté’s oh-so-refined, ubermoisturzing Extra Silky Lipstick. In the gloss family, CK  Calvin Klein Beauty’s Delicious Light Glistening Lipgloss gives a sheer, drenched look; Guerlain’s KissKiss Stick Gloss comes in beautiful cotton candy shades. Flirt!’s Glamourazzi Extreme Lacquer takes vinyl shine to megawatt levels and Maybelline New York’s Volume XL Seduction plumps lips and enhances shine in one fell swipe

01 Guerlain KissKiss Stick Gloss in Candy Pink, $28, Bloomingdale’s 02 Shu Uemura Rouge Unlimited Crystal Shine in RD165S, $23, Barneys New York 03 Maybelline New York Volume XL Seduction in Clearly Plump, $8.99, mass retailers 04 Dior Addict High Shine Lipstick in Backstage Pink, $25, Sephora 05 Clé de Peau Beauté Extra Silky Lipstick in 107, $50, Bergdorf Goodman, select Saks 06 CK Calvin Klein Beauty Delicious Light Glistening Lip Gloss in Taffy, $16, Macy’s 07 Flirt! Glamourazzi Extreme Lip Lacquer in Va-Va-Voom, $12, Kohl’s.

At-home hair colorists know the process can be time-consuming at best, uncertain at worst. Clairol’s Nice ’n Easy Perfect 10 tackles both issues. The 10 refers to the amount of time it takes to use it, as in 10 minutes rather than the standard 20 to 30. Equally as innovative is Perfect 10’s aminoglycine lightening technology, which took parent company Procter & Gamble 10 years to develop and resulted in 18 patents. It features a lower pH level than conventional products to better preserve the hair’s natural protective covering and reduce the pervasive smell of ammonia. Perfect 10’s new technology also enables it to selectively target melanin pigments, rendering it less likely to adversely effect the hair’s conditioning keratin fibers.

Clairol Nice ’n Easy Perfect 10, available in 15 shades, $13.99, mass retailers.


Benefit’s fix-it products have become the stars of its business. This spring, a new product looks set to enter the firmament. Erase Paste is an ultrathick concealer that both camouflages and brightens. How thick? It comes with its own spatula and step-by-step instructions for the most precise spackling in beauty.

Benefit Erase Paste, $26, Benefit counters,

Innovation in mascara doesn’t come around often, which is why Thierry Mugler’s Vinyl Gloss for Eye Lashes feels so exceptional. A sinuous black liquid with a brush applicator, it’s designed to be applied
lash by lash for extreme lengthening and even more extreme shine.

Thierry Mugler Vinyl Gloss for Eye Lashes, $49, Bloomingdale’s

Once you’ve tried on all of spring’s hot new makeup looks, wash them away with these new takes on the classic cleanser.

The Balm Balms Away Eye Makeup Break-Up
Infused with vitamins, this lipid-based retro cleansing balm goes on like Vaseline and wipes off makeup like a dream. ($19; Sephora)

Yves Saint Laurent Rinse-Off Instant Foam Radiance Revealer
Purifying bamboo sap glides on smoothly in this foam cleanser that leaves skin feeling clean and soft, not dried out and sensitive. ($37; Yves Saint Laurent counters)

St. Ives Elements Protective Cleanser
Cleanses and protects skin with micro-encapsulated sunscreen molecules that stick to skin for SPF 10 protection against UVA and UVB rays. ($6.99; mass retailers)

La Mer The Cleansing Foam
Magnetized tourmaline and La Mer’s patented deconstructed waters positively charge water while you wash, attracting dirt and makeup for a quick, thorough cleaning without any harmful scrubbing or harsh cleansing agents. ($65; Bergdorf Goodman, select Saks)

Whether high or low maintenance, there’s a men’s product to suit every personality this spring. Mensgroom targets sporty types with Daily Defender, a firming and moisturizing gel said to protect skin from the harsh, drying effects of inclement weather, while Billy Jealousy goes the sensitive route with its White Knight Gentle Daily Facial Cleanser, enriched with apple amino acids, papaya, bergamot and willow bark for a nonstripping clean. On the shave front, Ahava’s Foam-Free Silk Shave has ginseng, vitamin E and aloe vera for a baby soft finish, while Dermalogica tackles mountain-man beards with its camphor and clove oil tough beard softener. For hair, Redken’s Outplay Texture Putty gives coifs an edge with its matte texture and thickening hold and Aveda Men’s Pure-formance Exfoliating Shampoo makes scalps healthier with seaweed and licorice to soothe and walnut shells and jojoba seeds to slough off dead skin cells and excess oils. Finally, appealing to the inner sybarite in everyone is Tom Ford for Men’s Cleansing Bar, a lushly scented exfoliating bar that brings sophistication to the classic soap on a rope.

Mensgroom Daily Defender, $40, select Macy’s; Tom Ford for Men Cleansing Bar, $18, Saks; Aveda Men Pure-Formance Exfoliating Shampoo, $24, Aveda salons, spas & stores; Dermalogica Pre-Shave Guard, $16,; Ahava for Men Foam-Free Silk Shave Cream, $18, Ricky’s NYC,; Redken for Men Outplay Texture Putty, $13.95, 800-REDKEN8; Billy Jealousy White Knight Gentle Daily Facial Cleanser, $20, Nordstrom.

Z – Zzzzz

These high-tech night creams will rescue your skin while you snooze.

L’Oreal Paris Collagen Remodeler Contouring Moisturizer for Face and Neck Night
Puts collagen production into overdrive, thanks to stimulating alfalfa. ($19.99; mass retailers)

Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew Overnight Regenerating Cream
This retexturizing moisturizer utilizes vitamin C to regenerate cells, lycopene to protect against environmental aggressors and zinc, manganese and magnesium to hydrate dull skin. ($12.99; mass retailers)

Shiseido Benefiance Nutriperfect Night Cream
Carnosine dp, a peptide, defends cells against free radicals in this antiaging cream geared toward boosting firmness in skin made weak by
the hormonal changes of menopause. ($92; Nordstrom)

Aveeno Positively Ageless Lifting & Firming Night Cream
Gives skin a boost with toning wheat protein and collagen and elastin promoting shiitake mushrooms. ($19.99; mass retailers)

Burt’s Bees Naturally Ageless Firming Night Creme
The first antiaging night cream from the natural brand features pomegranate to fight free radicals, white birch to firm and paracress to diminsh lines and wrinkles. ($24.99; mass retailers)

Orlane Anti-Fatigue Repairing Night Creme
Sea plankton sets off false alarms in the skin, tricking cells into working overtime to self-repair damage and keep skin looking energized and refreshed. ($300; Neiman Marcus)

Elizabeth Arden Prevage Anti-aging Night Cream
Antioxidant-rich idebenone helps skin repair itself during sleep, for a more rejuvenated look in the morning. ($125; Elizabeth Arden counters)