America’s quest for quicker, less invasive cosmetic procedures is having a ripple effect on physician-dispensed skin-care sales.
Not only do these treatments, such as micro-needling or laser resurfacing, build repeat visits to the doctor’s office, but they also offer the chance to build sales of new topical technologies.
A case in point is Alastin Skin Care. In 2015, when looking for gaps and unmet needs in physician-dispensed skin-care products, Alastin Skin Care executives observed that consumers were moving away from undergoing invasive cosmetic surgeries with lengthy recovery times. Instead, they were gravitating toward lighter treatments such as laser resurfacing, peels, micro-needling and intense pulsed light. Those are among the fastest-growing segments in the $15 billion aesthetic industry, according to statistics from the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery. The types of rejuvenating procedures that consumers were seeking had changed, but topical skin care had not.
“There wasn’t really any new technology in the market that was designed to support these procedures,” said Diane Goostree, Alastin’s president and chief executive officer. “The physician-dispensed skin-care products were mostly antiaging or for special conditions like acne. There weren’t any new topical products that could be used with procedures to speed up healing and provide enhanced outcomes.” What’s more, she said, the existing products that were used were typically greasy and didn’t offer a pleasant experience for consumers.
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Goostree, a 30-year industry veteran who was a key executive in building SkinMedica before it was sold to Allergan in 2012, was one of the team of experts who helped develop Alastin’s Procedure Enhancement System. To do so, she harnessed her background which fuses science and marketing — she has a chemical engineering degree and an MBA. The company’s flagship procedure product is Regenerating Skin Nectar with Alastin’s proprietary TriHex Technology. The Procedure line is rounded out with a recovery balm, a cleanser, moisturizer and broad-spectrum SPF 30. The Nectar retails for $195.
“The original thinking was that our TriHex Technology products would be focused on post-procedure healing,” she said of the system. But upon studies including biopsies of skin, it was revealed the products were instrumental in not only healing post-procedure, but also in preparing skin for treatments. The products also helped repair all skin — including sun damaged and aged skin. “So, we said let’s pretreat to make skin more conducive to receiving the treatment and provide better results and healing, and then transition to antiaging products after healing is complete.” Positive results were produced within two to three weeks, she said.
Buoyed by success with its first line of products, Alastin formulated a second line called Restore & Renew one year later. This is a daily skin-care line that includes an eye product, a Restorative Skin Complex (serum for plumping and volumnizing), a retinol, a pro mineral SPF 36 and moisturizer with plans to further build out the range. “Restore & Renew has become half of our business,” she added. The lineup has benefitted from a buzz on social media driving consumers into participating physician offices.
Goostree confirms a movement in the industry for younger consumers to take a proactive approach to skin care, and are among the most likely to opt for the non-ablative and series approach to rejuvenating procedures. Among the treatments they favor are Halo and BBL laser and light treatments.
She said aesthetic physicians will remain the distribution focus for Alastin. “We believe they provide the proper setting for education of patients on skin care and procedures. Exclusive distribution of our products through the physician channel allows them to maintain an ongoing relationship with their patients to help manage their skin-care regimens,” she explained.
Although Alastin is a small company, there is a strong focus on R&D. Goostree indicated there are several new products in the pipeline to supplement emerging rejuvenating skin-care procedures.
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