The king of the peel is adding to his kingdom.
Dermatologist Dennis Gross, founder of the skin-care brand that carries his name and a longtime peel aficionado, has two ferulic acid facial products ready for a January launch. (They will preview on sephora.com later this week.) Gross first got into the peel business with his Alpha Beta Peel in 2000 (when the line was called M.D. Skincare), and now has four peels and counting in his range, in addition to serums.
“It was considered radical in 2000, because I was saying that a peel was gentle and could be used every day,” Gross said. “But we proved it could be done.”
Part of Gross’ secret to keeping things gentle has been to use multiple types of acids in each peel, with the cocktail of acids each having a different helping purpose.
That’s also the case with the first new product, Ferulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Peel, which is intended to be used as a peel to accelerate skin renewal, and as an antiaging antioxidant to help reduce wrinkles, restore skin and make skin more dense. It contains retinol for its wrinkle-smoothing properties; lactic acid to speed cell turnover and cell renewal; ferulic acid to boost the properties of other avids and provide antioxidants; mandelic acid to calm irritation; linoleic acid to moisturize and soften, and linolenic acid to aid in the production of new cells. It is recommended for use two to three times a week in the evening.
Ferulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Peel will retail for $88 for 16 packets.
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To complement it, Gross is readying Ferulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Overnight Serum, $88 for 1 oz. It is an overnight serum with retinol, ferulic acid and niacinamide intended to firm skin and fight wrinkles. The serum delivers a time-released dose of retinol overnight to aid the other ingredients, noted Gross. It is intended for daily use in the evening. “It is fantastic for protecting the skin barrier,” he noted. “And when skin needs its vitamins is overnight — it cycles overnight. During the daytime, your skin is dealing with ultraviolet light. At night, when the skin is at rest and no longer dealing with being adaptive to the environment, that’s when it’s repairing itself.”
In the U.S., the products will be sold in 389 Sephora doors, sephora.com, 102 Nordstrom doors, QVC, Drdennisgross.com and about 250 professional spas. While Gross declined to discuss sales projections, industry sources estimated that the new peel and serum will together do about $10 million at retail in its first full year on counter.