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L’Oréal’s Active Cosmetics Brings Prebiotics Skin Care to Market

Five years of research went into the new line, which fortifies the link between wellness and beauty.

The day before L’Oréal’s $1.3 billion purchase of three skin-care brands from Valeant, retailers embraced other news from the beauty giant. L’Oréal’s Active Cosmetics Division launched the much-anticipated Toleriane Double Repair Moisturizer, a prebiotic skin care collection.

Toleraine Double Repair consists of two moisturizers and complementary cleansers. The skin-care launch delivers prebiotics to the mass market. Prebiotics are garnering attention for digestive health, but the concept is also proving effective fostering healthier skin. Retailers said highly-educated consumers are aware of prebiotics and are on the prowl for affordable options.

“We continue to see results from advanced skin technologies featured at CVS and I think this will continue with Toleriane and its prebiotics skin care, Alex Perez-Tenessa, vice president of merchandising in beauty and personal care at CVS told WWD. Perez-Tenessa believes the entry will fortify the link between wellness and beauty.

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The line joins the portfolio of derm-quality brands sold in mass doors such as Vichy and La Roche-Posay, as well as the physician-dispensed Eau Thermale Avène available in select drug stores. Among the chains rolling out Toleraine this month are CVS, Walgreens, Target, Ulta Beauty and Duane Reade. Toleriane Double Repair Moisturizer will also be sold online and in select physicians’ offices. Prices range from $14.99 for the cleansers to $19.99 for the moisturizers.

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L’Oréal’s Active Cosmetics Division is viewed as having tremendous potential in the U.S. as chains ramp up their serious skin-care presentations. That sentiment was highlighted with the purchase of  the Valeant brands. “The acquisition of CeraVe, AcneFree and Ambi strongly complement L’Oréal’s brand portfolio,” said Frédéric Rozé, president and chief executive officer of L’Oréal USA. “These three brands, built on strong relationships with health professionals and widely distributed, will nearly double the revenue of our Active Cosmetics Division in the U.S. and will help us satisfy the growing demand for active skin care at accessible prices.”

La Roche-Posay devoted five years of research into the new Toleriane line, which is formulated with Prebiotic Thermal Spring Water. The water, filled with minerals and trace elements, is said to be ideal for treating the microbiome, a layer under the skin’s barrier. According to L’Oréal, La Roche-Posay’s team conducted 13 clinical studies to gain a new understanding on the microbiome, its inter-correlation with the physical barrier and what it could mean for the future of skin care. The brand’s key findings in this new field have been presented at major congresses of dermatology around the world — including the World Congress of Dermatology in Vancouver in 2015 — and have been published in influential journals of dermatology.

“Research is showing a connection between the health of your microbiome and the overall health of skin. It’s important for us, as dermatologists, to understand the influence it has on skin — inside and out — so we can make the best recommendations when treating patients,” said Dr. Hilary Baldwin, a New Jersey-based dermatologist.