Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lift Regenerating Youth Creme Gelée

The Estée Lauder Cos. Inc.’s Re-Nutriv brand has formulated itself a new antiaging line for its 60th birthday.

The business, a project of Estée herself, has continued its tradition of sourcing rare, regenerative ingredients for the Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lift Regenerating Youth line. Each product contains Floralixir Dew, which is made from the Himalayan gentian and the Brasil Everlasting — two rare flowers known for surviving in harsh conditions. Estée was a huge fan of flowers, according to Nadine Pernodet, vice president of global research and development.

“These two flowers are brand new, they have never been used,” Pernodet said. For Re-Nutriv, Lauder generally looks for “exceptionally powerful plants or flower or algae, etc.,” she said. “Whatever has been able to survive extreme conditions is definitely something that has powerful molecules to repair and protect. The secret is how to translate this for skin benefit.”

The line consists of a rich Creme, a lighter Creme Gelée, a Serum and an Eye Creme, each infused with the Floralixir Dew and infused with Re-Nutriv’s signature floral scent. The Eye Creme is priced at $155, while the rest of the products are priced at $295. It rolls out in almost 10,000 doors, including Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Lane Crawford and Harrods this month. Industry sources expect the line is expected to do $90 million in global retail sales in its first year.

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It can be used by the young and the old, Pernodet said, for immediate radiance and luminosity, and in the long-term, antiwrinkle results.

The new product line was presented at the Neue Galerie, where Ronald Lauder shared a wide spectrum of anecdotes, from his mother and great uncle’s formulation of the original Re-Nutriv line, which his father was in charge of mixing up, to the time when after he left Lauder, WWD arrived at the doorstep of his new job at the Pentagon, much to his chagrin. At 72, he also credited the brand for his lack of crow’s-feet.

“Growing up in the cosmetic industry is not the easiest thing in the world,” Lauder said. “It was particularly difficult when I left the cosmetics industry and went to the Pentagon.

“The fact is, I must tell you, that I was in my 20s when I started using the cream…no wrinkles here,” Lauder said, motioning to the corners of his eyes. “It goes back to the 1950s,” Lauder said. “I was at the dinner table with my parents and my mother had an uncle from Hungary…a great dermatologist, great scientist…I said to my mother, ‘this guy looks like a kook.’

“My mother and he worked on a product that he’d been working on,” Lauder continued. “It was a product that had a huge cost of goods because he used things that had never been used before….At that time, my father was the one who used to mix the creams, my mother didn’t have the patience….They came up with the name Nutrition, and my mother said, ‘that’s a lousy name.'”

After considering the name Re-Nutrition, Estée changed it to Re-Nutriv, Lauder said, and charged $115 at a time when most creams cost between $5 or $10.

Guests at the event were then treated to an after-dark tour of the Neue Galerie’s upstairs exhibit, Klimt and the Women of Vienna’s Golden Age.

“When I was a teenager, I started to collect art and frankly, I could not afford, or rather my parents could not afford — I was on allowance at the time,” Lauder said. “At that time, German and Austrian art was still relatively cheap and I started to buy it…I had a Bar Mitzvah. They gave me all types of gifts and I took all my gifts, sold [them] and bought art. And my father said, ‘I think I have a crazy son.’ And I said, ‘I got it from your crazy uncle.'”

The museum tour was one of a series of events celebrating the brand’s 60th year. Model Carolyn Murphy is also celebrating her 15th year as the face of the brand, the company noted. Thursday morning, Aerin Lauder provided tours of the company’s archives, which contain glimpses into Re-Nutriv’s past, including packaging evolution and scraps of paper with the evolving name suggestions. In the evening, the brand hosted a celebratory dinner at Kappo Masa.

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