Synthetic biology lab Geltor has designed human collagen specifically for skin-care products.
The collagen, called HumaColl21, is vegan and molecularly identical to type 21 of human collagen, according to Geltor, and is said to be more biocompatible with the skin.
HumaColl21 is created using sustainable fermentation processes. Other types of collagen commonly available on the market today are frequently sourced from the skin and bones of pigs, cows and fish.
The new collagen product is meant to increase skin’s moisture levels and firmness, according to Geltor cofounder and chief executive officer Alex Lorestani. It joins other proteins in Geltor’s portfolio of products, he noted, and is only meant for topical application.
Geltor began exploring how to create human collagens several years ago, Lorestani said, and starting to center on HumaColl21 about 18 months ago. So far, Kolmar has commercialized the product in a moisturizer called AHC Ageless Real Eye Cream for Face, which is sold in South Korea.
“A lot of consumers are familiar enough with the biotechnology story to understand we can make these products through fermentation,” Lorestani said.
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Asked if consumers would understand that the ingredient came from a lab and not from actual human, Lorestani said yes.
Geltor is looking for customers, like Kolmar, that are looking to tell the ingredient story, Lorestani said, noting that demand for the ingredient is already high ahead of its official unveiling at In-Cosmetics Paris. “That’s a great example of how you can focus on benefits and explain the hero ingredient in a way that’s accessible,” he noted.
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