SHANGHAI — American designer brands, and particularly Asian-American brands, were a visible addition to Shanghai Fashion Week, which ran Oct. 11 to 18.Phillip Lim and chief executive officer Wen Zhou of 3.1 Phillip Lim, as well as Derek Lam cofounder and ceo Jan-Hendrik Schlottmann and CFDA president and ceo Steven Kolb were all on hand to participate in events as part of the Shanghai International Fashion Showcase, a platform for international brands that runs alongside the main Shanghai Fashion Week schedule.According to Kolb, there is a huge opportunity for American brands in China, which is still largely dominated at the luxury end by traditional European names."It’s a big market, and it’s only going to get bigger. I think it’s more sophisticated than many American brands think it is. The largeness of it and the many components of the market can be confusing to American designers, so it’s navigating that and really understanding what is the best platform or approach," Kolb said."I think American fashion in general is somewhat overshadowed by some of these luxury European brands that tend to have the interest of Chinese consumers. You look at a Phillip Lim or Derek Lam and they are fairly well-known brands, but they’re still not at the level of a Gucci or a Prada. So that’s a challenge for brands is building that brand awareness."Though designers such as Lim, Lam, Jason Wu and Alexander Wang have roots in China, they all set out first to conquer the U.S. market before making significant moves into China, according to Schlottmann, in the case of Lam, this was a deliberate strategy."We started out by targeting the American market, even though Derek has this dual identity as American-born Chinese. We felt we had something to say in the realm of American sportswear, and thought once we had made a success there, then it would be the time to move internationally," he said.Likewise, all have taken a less-than-aggressive approach when it comes to the China market — though more from inherent caution than lack of interest."I feel like in the U.S. when I first started in 2005, it was about making some clothes and seeing what happens. While there is a strategy I think is right, I want to wait, talk to friends, see whether my feeling about this market is right. In the meantime, less is more. Less distribution, more authentic voice, to be able to tell our story or why we matter and why fashion matters so much to us. I think this market is so fascinating," Lim's ceo Wen Zhou said.According to Kolb, this interest is reciprocated by Chinese consumers for whom the youthfulness of American fashion is a plus."American culture in general is perceived in a certain way, there is a more pop, accessible, playful element to it, the culture of fashion is related to the culture of art and music…there’s a pure kind of excitement around that," he said."American fashion, we are a young market compared to European brands, so there is a youthfulness in terms of the ability to connect."
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)