A few days after Pitti Uomo and Pitti Bimbo, Fortezza da Basso is getting ready to host the 81st edition of Pitti Filati. The fair dedicated to yarns for the knitting industry will run June 28-30 in Florence and will be focused on research and creativity in an attempt to catch the eye of international buyers.
A rearrangement of space will highlight the role of Spazio Ricerca (the research area) in a new location, Hall M, where “The human edition” will be its main theme. The idea is to put the natural needs of men and women at the center of research, therefore at the center of the yarn and fashion industry. Creativity must follow the demands of people, not the opposite, organizers believe. The project involves an exhibition from fashion designer Angelo Figus and knitwear expert Nicola Miller. Also Knitclub, the area featuring quality knitting mills, strengthens its connection with Spazio Ricerca in an effort to reinforce the integration of the production chain.
Yarn companies are presenting new products that not only try to anticipate fashion trends but also meet people’s needs. Lanificio dell’Olivo will display a collection made with baby alpaca yarn from the Andes mountains that is combined with poliammidic fibers for the line called Natural Performance. This results in easy-to-care yarns which can be used for a variety of items in the fashion industry. “We aim at meeting the growing demand of yarns which can be used long-term and on different occasions,” said Chiara Taddeucci, board member at Lanificio dell’Olivo, which was acquired by the Gradiente Sgr fund two years ago.
“We have have kept alpaca’s amazing performances but we have added new ones,” added Ilaria Taddeucci, another board member. The main feature is that Natural Performance yarn can also keep the body temperature constant so the same item can be worn all day. Moreover, fabrics produced with this fiber are easy to care for, meaning they can be washed over and over without deteriorating. The collection is also mixed with metallic materials to add a modern effect.
Lanificio dell’Olivo will also present the Cotton Four Seasons collection, which features a 12-month wearable cotton, meeting the demand for knitting products that can be used the entire year.
Luxury ath-leisure will be featured by Cariaggi. The Cagli-based company (in the Marche Region) has been inspired by an eco-friendly philosophy that considers yarns as something natural. Given this, the final result must be completely respectful of the environment. Cariaggi is presenting soft and light yarns consistent with a contemporary ath-leisure bent. Soft precious fibers are processed in ways that allow the final cloths to be comfortable and all-day wearable.
According to the spinner, cashmere and silk are the must-have yarns for the 2018 fall collections. Gala yarn (78 percent cashmere) gives an unexpected and yet elegant fur effect which is very soft and light, while Ikat is the result of the mix of cashmere and silk.
Earth tones and a blue, sea-like palette will be the most used colors in Cariaggi’s collections.
At Botto Giuseppe, sustainability will be at the center of the offering. The Naturalis Fibra collection will feature a New Zealand mulesing-free wool. It is produced in the company’s Friuli plant by using sustainable energy only. “The attention about sustainability is growing in the fashion market,” explained Silvio Botto Poala, Botto Giuseppe’s chief executive officer. “Spinners are expected to give detailed information about the purchase of yarns and their origin, but also about production.”
Botto Giuseppe’s fall collections for 2018 will feature a wider offer of 3-D structures by using bouclé, ottoman, cavalry and seersucker yarns.
Technology will be a key factor in Lineapiù Italia’s collections at Pitti Filati. Four noble fibers have been processed in order to bring out their natural features. South African Mohair, Peruvian baby alpaca, Central Asian baby camel and Tibetan baby yak will tell the story of people and their relationship with nature and territory. The aim of the Tuscan spinner is to go back to the fundamentals of knitting while applying modern technology, which must be used only to enrich the yarns.
Technological innovations, cleverly blended with craftsmanship will be seen at Tollegno 1900’s stand as well, aiming at maximizing the functionality and value of products. Comfort and durability are the two key features that drove the Biellese company’s processes, following a “humanist philosophy 2.0.” The #24hourworkandleisure line is expected to become one of the company’s bestsellers, a collection where ultrafine and extrafine merino wool is mixed with cashmere and technical fibers to create very wearable yarns.
Veneto company Alpes Manifattura will present precious fibers like baby alpaca together with alpaca superfine yarns in subtly plush versions. The demand of multiseasonal knits is expressed by Alpes in products like stretch viscose and shrink-proof wool, while ultra soft furry effects interpret the desire for both elegant and soft effects.