Materiality, movement, tactility and positive reduction were the inspirations for fabric selections at Première Vision New York, which focused on sustainability and responsible production as primary drivers for spring 2021 material trends. The event was held last week at Center 415, a new venue for the show.
Première Vision New York presented a “reorganized offer” for attendees, which included notable trends in an “Immersion Room” and seminars led by the PV team that were sustainability focused and intended to highlight responsibility measures, as well as discuss some of the challenges currently facing the industry.
Its seasonal theme of materiality takes form with a focus on layering and feather-light garments, inclusive of new responsibly produced viscoses, supple knits, dramatic pleats and “transparencies that are both light and dense.” Movement is reflected in a selection of wavy, gleaming fabrics and glazed materials, while tactility is centered on 3-D digital designs and multilayers for material enhancement. Positive reduction places emphasis on traceability in the production chain by encouraging the use of materials that are sustainable, and of higher quality. And collectively, color palettes for spring are tone-on-tone, monochromatic, or clashes of warm and cool tones and contrasts. An emphasis on bluish hues stems from the concept that “the earth is the sky.”
Lucie Jeannot, fashion product manager, Première Vision, told WWD, “[Materiality] is not on smooth surfaces and it’s not only in prints, but you also have superstructures in all the fabrics and all the garments. It is a highlight of the season. With ‘positive reductions’ you have to think about sustainability and how we really define this process from the fibers to the creative process to the industrial use with certifications and it’s really about the choice we have to make today in our own creative process.”
“And we have ‘more movements,’ so in this kind of context we want to have fabrics with stretch, but natural stretch as well so it is a dialogue in between. And you have the movement in fabrics and then the flexibility to be with stretch and movements to be able to really emerge in this movement. It is an opportunity to be cross responsible.”
For its winter edition, Première Vision expanded its Smart Creation Square, an area of the show that introduces new textile technologies. This year, 30 exhibitors deemed to be “the most ecologically committed companies at the New York show” were selected to showcase their creations, based on the following criteria: “The Company,” or its social and ethical responsibility and environmental performance; “Transformation Methods,” referring to traceability, finishing and dyeing processes; and “The Products,” inclusive of recycling technologies, organic content and use of alternative materials.
Selected companies met requirements in each of the three pillars and showed verified certifications in order to display their product. And at least 20 percent of their collections are dedicated to sustainable and responsible offerings, according to Première Vision.
Pascaline Wilhelm, fashion director at Première Vision, told WWD, “We are in a very tough situation and we all need to be clear about what is real and what is greenwashing. And today it is very important and part of our vision is making enormous work on sustainability and we are pleased to capture it in the U.S.”
The PV team noted that younger generations are more particular about their apparel choices, in addition to a preference for genderless looks. Wilhelm said, “Materiality is really interesting today because it’s not only to be heavy, it’s more of a balance between digital and materiality. And now materiality is interesting for the young generation as we see fashion has become more and more. It has to have character.”
And Jeannot told WWD that according to recent research, 56 percent of Gen Z is shopping outside of traditional gender assignments. “Gender assignment is becoming more and more blurred and if you look to last men’s wear fashion week you see it is not about being a woman or a man, it’s more about the styling process now. And so men’s wear can be dresses and ribbons, it’s not a uniform or normcore.”
“With this gender fluidity you pick from each wardrobe and it’s becoming a very rich wardrobe for everyone. So women can go to suiting; women are wearing a lot of suits now, it is a big trend. Gender fluidity doesn’t mean erasing sexuality, but for products and fabrics, it is a big opportunity to create a new direction.”
Jeannot continued, “It’s not only a question of shape but a question of fabric, of weight, of the behavior of a product and opening a super interesting market. Men’s wear can go to ribbons now and can take on lace. We can see more crossover in the sector because now the ‘fancy’ is not just for women’s wear and there is an open mind for men’s wear selections so its really a big opportunity for them as well.”
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