PVNY Fall 2020

Showgoers can anticipate a sparkling, cosmic and poetic selection at Première Vision Paris, a season that invites celestial, earthy themes and a chilling take on textiles. The event will be held on September 17 to 19 at the Paris-Nord Villepinte.

Comparable to trends seen at Première Vision New York, textiles for fall 2020 are influenced by a color story of contrasting, complementary colors. Hues are mainly cool-toned and uniquely named, donning futuristic, dystopian titles such as carnivorous bait, a crimson blood-red; emerald potion, a dark forest green; moon skin, an icy sage hue; mystical land, which is almost black; shamanic blue, a royal sapphire shade; or fine particle, a very deep, dark brown. Its “A20W21” theme’s three main categories — digital neutralities, egocentric intensities and dreamy depths — collectively introduce a season of “dashing and languid brilliance,” “reminiscent of an imaginary world” that has “fallen from an exo-planet”; yes — poetic indeed.

Première Vision New York 2019

Fabric by Prismatex at Première Vision. 

Julie Greux, Fashion Director at Première Vision, told WWD, “Fantasy takes us far from reality this season, into a rich and sometimes fantastical imaginary world, an escape into parallel universes where reality is enhanced with poetry and technology. This is the season of new, mysterious, sometimes disturbing natures, a creation of our unconscious, reflecting dreams and nightmares.” Première Vision’s textile trend groupings such as night reveries, skin-like velvetiness, shyly flamboyant or structured lightness perhaps best encompass the duality of the selection and collectively present a range of futuristic, attractive color palettes, patterns and hues. Albeit, most of the trends are a bit on the dark side, but the gloom is juxtaposed with a heavy undertone of optimism and sustainable design for an industry that is ready.

Première Vision New York 2019

“Structured lightness” at Première Vision. 

Greux added that sustainability is undoubtedly and inherently a major component of the show’s theme: “Eco-responsibility has become an absolute priority,” she explained. “And in our industry, at all stages of the production chain, clear answers are already available, and our exhibitors are developing more and more eco-friendly products. For example, recycling research continues to expand, with more and more creative and innovative and there’s also research into new fabrics incorporating all the drivers of clean production, which make us optimistic.”

A “night reveries” textile at Première Vision. 

Prints are in the same vein, as New York-based print design studios such as Nikki Martinkovic noted a move away from lighter trends, such as tie-dye, and a focus on darker tones with animal prints for fall. Martinkovic told WWD, “A lot of animal prints mixed into geodes or flowers has been a big group for us. Tie-dye was really recent and now it’s fading out because summer is ending, but it’s still something people are requesting. Expressionist florals that are more artistic with a strong stroke and a lot of energy has been really big. Some tile prints, too, but again, a lot of animal prints going into fall.”

Première Vision New York 2019

Première Vision’s space-age “muffled shine” textile. 

All the while, fur — which is brimming with boisterous color and geometric patterns — remains a perennial favorite among fashion brands. Eric Rouskas of New York-based Funtastic Furs, told WWD, “Brands are looking for colorful furs. Colors, flowers and all the flashier colors are a big trend. This is the way we’re going — we try to dye the skins according to those trends, and accommodate their needs,” he said. And in regard to the debate over fur’s sustainability, Rouskas said, “Of course, fur is a sustainable material. All of the byproducts from fur are being recycled and being used for food, medical purposes, and leather is used to create the fur. Nothing goes to waste. It is sustainable and biodegradable — within 20 to 40 years, depending on the item and how well the customer is taking care of the fur, it will eventually go back to earth. This is something that everyone has to consider.” He added, “It is the natural choice.”

Futuristic fabrics are a key trend at Première Vision. 

Greux explained to WWD that the fashion industry and its values are swiftly evolving, noting that brands and retailers are being challenged to improve with haste. “[The fashion industry’s] economic models are being questioned; overconsumption, production methods and pollution are all rising concerns. So it’s time to put some real energy into getting a step ahead of these changes.”

“[We should] make a positive commitment to fashion more closely tied to the environment, more spiritual and more humane. In this period of profound change, we focus our concerns on new ways to dress. So we can regain a sense of meaning, and products’ true value, and regain consumer confidence. We’re also seeing a rising tide of self-reflection, a growing need for spirituality, to discover how to reconnect with ourselves, and our brands’ own DNA. [There is also] a need to speak more directly to the consumer, who is constantly seeking more personalization.”

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