Sparkling copper metallics, pebbly textured surfaces and hazy wintry hues emphasized a mineral-themed trend story at Première Vision New York, which was held last week at Pier 94.
Launching trends for fall 2019, Première Vision projected a season characterized by soft, cozy casualwear and structured, creamy fabrics, worn best with muddy purples, sturdy neutrals and striking complementary colors, such as muffled grays and intense red, or cobalt blue. Julie Greux, the associate fashion director at Première Vision, told WWD, “One of the great trends for the next season is this kind of mineral aspect, with very whitened effects and rock [details]. We really want to focus on some shimmering, the moving of surfaces,” she said. The materials look like gravel, rock and stone, but feel like butter. “There’s also a focus on more rough [appearances] and faux-fur aspects,” she noted.
Greux continued, “The oxidation [trend] is also very important, because of course we have a few funky, metallic colors, [which are more of] an extravagant story, but we noticed that this season the shininess is really a bit more [subtle] and we have this soft reflection that is on the surface of the fabric.” She added, “for the metallic aspect, we have copper injected in the fabrics, so it’s not focused anymore on gold or silver. There is an oxide new shine, which creates a warm colored effect.”
Fabric textures home in on warm “second skins” and airy technical fabrics, which lend themselves well to the overarching trend of sport mobility, according to Greux. Structures are less voluminous and centered on thick, fleecy stretch materials juxtaposed by an emphasis on “light protection” and stonelike “meteorite” surfaces. And colors are centered on warm metallics, focused on bronze and copper alongside “singed oxide” and “chalky rock” tones. Prints, too, have shifted toward bold, contrasting colors. Australian print house Din and Bloom told WWD, “We’re seeing a lot of reds, a lot of cobalt blue. Then we’re seeing a lot of scarf mixing, print mixing, so pulling out little coordinates, scarf layouts that are quite Versace inspired and a lot of border prints.” They continued, “We’re seeing a lot of yellow. Last season we were selling a lot of rusts, and now we’re moving into more of that marigold and those true canary yellows as well.” The company also said they’re seeing a lot of tapestries and needlepoints going forward for fall.
Guglielmo Olearo, the international exhibitions director at Première Vision, told WWD, “We’re going to pay more attention to athleticwear, because it’s now a relevant sector for the fashion industry, across ath-leisure and performance.” He added, “We’re showing the very latest developments, which are mainly focused on lightness, softness, less puffy looks and how products should [feel] like a second skin.” Olearo added, “The second important thing and strong pillar of Première Vision is sustainability and smart creation,” he said. “It’s not just a matter of save the world or save the planet, or saving electricity or water, but it’s also to show the world and the fashion industry how sustainability can be beautiful and creative as well.”
And the topic of sustainability is ever-present across every material and texture, particularly with wool and fur. Gulden Dogan, marketing manager at Yünsa, told WWD, “For wool and wool blends, customers are looking for different things. They are looking for more textures and softer finishes with a more casual look to it.” Dogan added, “They’re also asking for more sustainable qualities. This trend was in Europe and now we’re seeing it more in the U.S. We’re doing some recycled polyester and we use Tencel.” And Tasos Karangunis of Funtastic Furs, said, “Fur still remains popular, we just have to be very, very careful. We have to be in compliance with sustainability and we have to cater to our customer with fur from certified farms that are 100 percent traceable. We’re making a beautiful product and we treat it as a fabric.” Karangunis continued, “This is the most sustainable fabric in the fashion world” and “consumers today are a lot more educated than in the past,” demanding long-haired shearlings and mink, “which is the ‘king’ of the furs,” he said.
“Orderly geometry,” such as blurred checks and plaids, was another prevailing theme. Alejandro Nunez, a designer at New York-based design agency Catherine B Designs, said, “We’re seeing a lot of stripes and big geometrics, multicolor florals with a lot of neon colors in some cases. There are very few conversationals, but they are key pieces in some cases,” he said. “I’m seeing a lot of big florals, such as Marni kinds of colors and combinations, like striking red with purple or red with very bright blue and things like that, in a mineral color kind of way, with translucence or some [metallic] shades.”
And returning to the show this year is Première Vision’s Smart Creation platform, which promotes sustainability via a selection of exhibitors’ eco-responsible products for the upcoming season, including recycled and organic materials and fabrics with eco-friendly finishing. Juliet Bailey, codirector of Dash and Miller, a woven fabric design studio, told WWD that “natural fibers are predominant, with rustic and rough-looking tweeds using luxury fibers and ethical alternatives such as alpaca and hemp. Fancy yarns are natural and textured, bouclés, slubs, eye-lash yarns and nepp yarns are [also] important.” She continued, “Natural fibers with scientific coatings and woven surfaces with laminated or printed finishes” as well as “metallic fibers [contrasted] with matte synthetic and foamy fibers, knitted tubular yarns, gimps and tape yarns woven with fine high-density polyester filaments and transparent yarns” are also in high demand.
Growing interest in 3-D surface materials has also been developing in the market. The firm has had its fair share of clients seeking “3-D cloqué surfaces, padded ribs, micro-dobby patterns, engineered jacquards, matte and shine contrast, cellular organic textures with technical finishes and structured meshes,” she said, in addition to “rustic tweeds, chunky constructions in lightweight yarns, deconstructed meshes in natural fibers, windowpane broken checks, gap-checks, 3-D surface textures and stretch-tweeds,” she said. Aligning with Première Vision’s outlook on fashionable technical fabrics, Bailey said, “We are focusing on technical performance fabrics as an aesthetic driver. Engineered fabrics transition from smooth 3-D surfaces to micro-patterns inspired by architectural references. The idea of performance and the properties of the fabric should be reflected and amplified by pattern and construction.”
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