PARIS — Accessories buyers trolling the Who’s Next Paris, Première Classe and Bijorhca Paris trade shows here in mid-January said their budgets were flat to up on the same prior-year period.
That was the case for Nevena Borissova, founder of the Curve boutiques, who was shopping for pre-fall and eye-catching pieces “not wildly spread on the American market.”
“I’ll probably spend 10 to 15 percent more than last year,” she said.
Budgets were larger, too, for Tsum accessories and jewelry buyer Maria Dontsova, who had placed an order with Carlo Zini at Bijorhca.
“It’s [got] a lot of bling, a lot of crystals. Usually that’s what our girl is looking for — they like all the bling,” said Dontsova, adding she was also in the market for clutches and fine cashmere hats and scarves.
“We’re looking for a lot of clutches and minaudières with [plenty] of crystals,” continued Song Haldeman, head of buying office research and account manager for Harvey Nichols Hong Kong, who said budgets for the season were “stable” versus January 2012.
Griffin Chan, buyer for Harvey Nichols Hong Kong, added they were also scouting out resources for men’s clutches and formal bags. Jewelry-wise, the duo would see Bernard Delettrez at Première Classe.
Attendees from nastygal.com were hoping to expand the site’s handbag and jewelry offer. “We’re looking for more structured shapes,” said Camilla Zecchetto, nastygal.com’s nonapparel buyer. These could include top-handle satchels with futuristic details like holograms “or just interesting materials or hardware,” she explained.
They were keen on “statement piece” jewelry, continued Christina Ferrucci, buying director for the site. A brand of interest was Andrés Gallardo, which creates porcelain pieces with animal and floral motifs.
Among labels showcasing larger silhouettes at Who’s Next and Première Classe was Alienina, whose heavy cord jewelry handmade in Italy is primarily composed of recycled materials. Sveva Collection was displaying its colorful, hand-stitched embroidered crystal creations.
For winter accessories, such as scarves and hats, the Inverni, Valeur and Epice stands were bustling.
Designer Zoe Lugo exhibited some of her latest Zoe Style Design Art bags, which are made of Andean fique, among other materials.
Over at Bijorhca, Helen Zeal, director of Hummingbird London Ltd. consultancy, noted among jewelry trends vintage, friendship bracelets in more metal work, Africa-inspired pieces, variations on the cocktail ring and a larger selection of drop earrings.
Chantal Manoukian displayed her La Tonkinoise jewelry collection whose one-of-a-kind creations include old and recycled elements. Jennifer Dewavrin highlighted her Paola Zovar creations replete with interchangeable stones.
Lamai’s resin jewelry resembles porcelain with hand-drawn or -painted, nature-inspired decor and Peggy Bannenberg presented her 3-D printed jewelry, some of which was in titanium.
Murat, whose sales are primarily generated domestically, in France, has set its sights abroad now, according to Sonia Balay, who is in charge of marketing and communication at the company. Among its models shown were voluminous pieces in silver made with electroforming.
“People are still always fond of novelty,” she said.
Attendee traffic was down at the trade fairs. For Who’s Next Paris, which for the first time broke out its accessories section and placed it next to Première Classe, among other changes including the creation of a Mr. Brown Accessories segment for men, registered a 1.4 percent dip in visitors to 57,838 versus the same prior-year session. While some found the new layout confusing, others said it was clear.
“It’s more convenient for buyers now, because they put everything together,” maintained Harvey Nichols’ Haldeman.
Attendee footfall at Bijorhca Paris declined 9.4 percent against the January 2012 edition to 12,302.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)