MILAN — Publicly listed fashion and luxury companies globally “registered a slight growth rate and maintained good” earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization in the first half of the year, according to Milan-based consultancy Pambianco Strategie di Impresa.
But a generally difficult economy, geo-political issues, a slowdown in tourism and markets such as China and Russia slowing down, are denting performance. Italian and European companies showed tapering revenues and American groups logged a 1.6 percent decrease compared with the same period last year.
In its study released Friday, Pambianco analyzed 13 Italian, 10 European and 12 American publicly listed companies. Damiani, Piquadro, Burberry, Richemont, Mulberry, Nike, Coach, Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors were not part of the study because they have different closing times, noted Pambianco.
Total revenues of all public companies from every geographic area taken into consideration in the study in the period climbed 2.8 percent to 99.8 billion euros, or $111.77 billion, at average exchange rates. This is a sharp slowdown compared with an 11.1 percent growth in the first half last year versus the same period in 2014.
EBITDA represented 16.6 percent of total sales compared with 17.5 percent in the same period last year.
Italian companies, from Luxottica, Prada and Salvatore Ferragamo to Safilo, Tod’s, Moncler, Brunello Cucinelli and Aeffe, reported total revenues of 10.37 billion euros, or $11.61 billion, down 1.6 percent compared with the first half last year. The companies that grew the most were Moncler, up 17.1 percent; Brunello Cucinelli, up 9.8 percent, and Aeffe, up 7.1 percent.
Total EBITDA represented 18.3 percent compared with 19.9 percent last year. The best-performing in terms of EBITDA were Salvatore Ferragamo, 23.4 percent; Moncler, 22.6 percent, and Luxottica, 22 percent.
Total revenues of companies in Europe, which ranged from LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Inditex, H&M and Adidas, to Kering, Hugo Boss and Jimmy Choo, amounted to 60.84 billion euros, or $68.14, up 5.8 percent from last year.
“Strong” increases in revenues were seen at Pandora, up 26.9 percent; Adidas, up 15 percent, and Inditex, up 11.1 percent.
Italian and European companies in the first half last year had posted double-digit increases compared with 2014.
Excluding Hermès, which does not reveal this figure, total EBITDA represented 18.2 percent compared with 19.4 percent in the first half of 2015. “Excellent” results were registered by Pandora, with an EBITDA of 37.2 percent; LVMH with 21.9 percent, and Inditex with 20.2 percent.
American companies, ranging from Gap, VF Corp., Limited Brands and PVH to Guess, G-III Apparel Corp. and Kate Spade, registered total revenues of 28.59 billion euros, or $32.02 billion, down 1.6 percent from the first half of 2015. Total EBITDA represented 12.6 percent compared with 13.1 percent in the first half of 2015.
“Excellent” results were registered by Tiffany with EBITDA of 22.7 percent; Limited Brands with 17.3 percent compared with 18.5 percent last year, and PVH with 15.3 percent compared with 12.2 percent.