Sales of prestige products with any SPF reached $1.4 billion for the year ending May 2016, up 7 percent over the previous two years, according to NPD. The items with SPF 30 or higher are growing twice as fast, according to the report, which notes that the American Academy of Dermatology recommends water-resistant sunscreen with broad-spectrum protection of SPF 30 or higher.
“Sun care looks to be the next beauty growth area to emerge, as consumers move from a singular focus on correction to a broader focus on care,” said Karen Grant, senior vice president and global beauty industry analyst for NPD. “It’s one of the most important attributes that women look for in their beauty products,” Grant said. “What is new is that we’ve seen high SPF’s growing.”
“We would primarily have seen [high SPF] in sun-care products. What makes it a bit interesting today is not just the fact that they’re growing at such a fast rate, but that the consumer today is open,” Grant said.
“From what they eat to what they put on their bodies, consumers are becoming more focused and well-versed in health and wellness,” Grant said. “Consumers today are more proactive and less reactive when it comes to managing their well-being. This attitude also translates to the beauty consumer, whose emphasis today weighs less on fixing an issue, and more on preventing one from happening in the first place. For more than a decade, all the news in skin care was about serums and technology, but today the focus has shifted to cleaner, simpler and lighter products. The growth in products with higher SPF ties into today’s mind-set and is connected to other emerging care formats including oil, water, milk and clay.”
In skin care, products with SPF 30 grew 9 percent year-over-year, while those with SPF 45 grew 29 percent and SPF 50 grew 31 percent. Makeup featuring SPF 15 remained flat, year-over-year, while makeup with SPF 20 declined 15 percent; makeup SPF 30 grew 43 percent; makeup SPF 40 increased 168 percent, and makeup with SPF 50 grew 96 percent, year-over-year, according to NPD. Those increases amount to a $36 million sales increase in skin-care products with SPF between 40 and 50. Makeup sales for products with SPF 40 to 50 more than doubled to $14 million. Self tanners, previously a declining category, had a 7 percent sales increase for the year, NPD said.
To maintain gains, the self-tanner category would need innovation, Grant stressed. “They’d have to be re-introduced in a way that has a coolness factor,” she said. “Like what brands have done to the mask business or the cleanser business. It’s got to have something that is going to show people not just a quick color, but maybe some other benefit that we’re not talking about right now.”
That same opportunity exists within SPF, according to Grant. “I’m interested to see if something new is going to come in that offers the protection in new ways … that’s what has been changing the market.”