Collections at the winter edition of Première Vision New York presented refinement, delicacy and optimism as top trends for the upcoming season. This year’s edited selection of 254 exhibitors across fabric, leather, textile designs and accessories sectors displayed spring 2019 collections at Pier 94 on Jan. 16 and 17.
Emblematic of the season itself, spring will introduce juicy, bright colors, subtle shine and sunny, graphic florals for forthcoming collections, according to Julie Greux, the associate fashion director at Première Vision. Juxtaposed with muted, tranquil tones and summery browns, textiles will be soft, clean and fresh. Creamy, supple fabrics alongside vibrant graphics, faceted polygons and geometric patterns embody the stark contrasts that define this season; but contrast is perhaps best represented in the trend “artificial and natural,” a blend of nature-inspired colors such as muted yellow-browns or “sap,” and punchy jewel tones.
Also of import is the arrival of “hybrid nature,” which skillfully fuses a range of animal colors, prints and patterns into textile designs, as well as the use of bold stripes with muted, “innocent” color palettes across a range of collections.
Greux told WWD, “We have a nice focus on green this season,” which is “going deeper” than past spring collections. Greux noted that the fineness, fragility and sophistication paired with cheery, fresh colors indicates a departure from nostalgia, and instead focuses on dedication to a sunny, optimistic season of liquid, jelly-like textures and colors. Many exhibitors incorporated “diffusion and fusion” into textile designs, which integrates runny, fluid colors into bold, contrasting prints. “Shivering” highly textured materials and metallic, shimmering gold-speckled leathers that gleam like “wet mushrooms” are the weightier trends this season. Lighter trends include luminescent, transparent fabrics with subdued shimmer.
Exhibitor Kate Honey, the founder of Australian print house Din and Bloom, told WWD, “I think any kind of abstracted animal that is really quite loose and almost has a slightly camouflage feel to it is quite beautiful. Clean, jewel tones and hand painting I think at this stage is probably the most important thing for clients, so we can really offer a point of difference.”
Honey noted that high-chroma, geometric prints and plaid and stripes are seen this season across all categories. And Juan Gratacós of Gratacós, a textile company based in Barcelona, agreed that top trends include very bright colors such as yellows and oranges with subtle shine. Juan told WWD, “People [at Première Vision] are always looking for novelty, something new and different, and that the show is “a thermometer to see what is going to be hot and in demand.”
This year’s show saw the introduction of Smart Creation Square, a new space that presents a selection of 55 “eco-responsible” fabrics from various exhibitors designed especially for Première Vision. Each product was categorized as a “Responsible Production,” “Recycled,” “Eco-Friendly Finishing” or “Organic” offering. Materials on display include certified-organic natural fibers such as cotton, wool, silk and linen, responsibly dyed fabrics, ethically manufactured materials and recycled fibers, either natural or synthetic, inclusive of polyester and polyamide. Organizers of the show said that sustainability is at the core its winter edition, as brands have pivoted toward ethical manufacturing, mainly due to consumer demand.
Guglielmo Olearo, the international exhibitions director at Première Vision, told WWD, “Today the consumer wants to consume but in a different way. That ‘different way’ is more responsible,” he said, which includes consumption of raw material, recycling and treatments. “I don’t think [sustainability] is just a trend,” he said. “In my opinion, today for us it is [essential] to answer what society and consumers are looking for.” Olearo added that “sustainability can be beautiful” and that “fashion is about beauty and creativity, and it’s what we want to highlight with the Smart Creation program that we [offer].”
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