There’s movement in Paris shows with new fairs appearing on the horizon, and changes of locations or dates for existing ones.
This story first appeared in the May 11, 2016 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Première Vision Paris will inaugurate its Blossom Première Vision fair dedicated to pre-collections; lingerie fair Mode City will move to Lyon, and Who’s Next will take over a Paris street in June for a consumer event in a bid to reinvent itself.
They’ll take place in a persistently challenging economic climate. But Parisians remain steadfast that the mood will slowly improve, and trade show organizers aim to maintain attendance.
The French Fashion Institute is forecasting a rise of 0.7 percent in apparel sales for 2016 after a 0.1 percent dip in 2015. Gildas Minvielle, head of the IMF, cited factors such as low interest rates, the weak euro and low oil prices as positives, also noting that the forecast excludes the risk — which is still considered high — of new terror attacks.
Organizers of the Première Vision Paris trade fair will launch Blossom Première Vision on July 6 and 7 at the Palais Brongniart in Paris.
“It’s to answer a demand from luxury brands for their pre-collections,” said Gilles Lasbordes, PV’s executive director.
About 60 exhibitors are expected to participate in the event, including lace-maker Sophie Hallette. A second edition of the Blossom show is to follow on Dec. 13 and 14.
For Première Vision, which runs Sept. 13 to 15, Lasbordes is forecasting the number of visitors to be “at least on par” with last year. Première Vision Paris — including Première Vision Yarns, Fabrics, Leather, Designs, Accessories and Manufacturing — drew 61,664 visitors last September, down 1 percent compared with September 2014.
“Without the impact of the terror attacks, 2015 would have been the year of return to growth,” he said.
PV plans to reveal during its September edition the first results of a new tool — a barometer focusing on the economy of raw materials, done in collaboration with IFM — which will be available to its exhibitors and visitors.
Meanwhile, Sourcing Connection, an annual show dedicated to the sourcing of raw materials that launched in September, is slated to run Sept. 12 to 14 at Paris Event Center, in the northern part of the city.
Trade show giant Eurovet will move its July editions of the Mode City intimates and Interfilière textile trade fairs from Paris to Lyon, France, as reported. It’s scheduled for July 9 to 11 at Lyon Eurexpo exhibition center. Organizers cited an overlap with the UEFA Euro 2016 finals, scheduled for July 10 in Paris, causing logistical constraints for the fairs because of the soccer event.
“Lyon boasts a wide hotel offer,” said Taya de Reyniès, lingerie and swimwear division director at Eurovet, who expects a stable attendance, despite the move.
Mode City had around 14,000 visitors in 2015, including around 72 percent foreigners. The edition will feature a 1,000 square-foot area dedicated to sportswear.
“The segment is a growth driver for lingerie brands and sports stores,” said de Reyniès, adding that it will involve sports bras, leggings and lingerie.
It will also create an “inspiration trail” in Lyon that will include a visit to the city’s Musée des Tissus et des Arts décoratifs. The designers behind Luli Fama, Lourdes Hanimian and Augusto Hanimian earned Mode City’s “designer of the year” honors, while Brugnoli is Interfilière’s designer of the year.
The Who’s Next fair plans to take over Rue Volta in Paris’ third arrondissement from June 15 to July 2 for a consumer event dubbed Volta by Who’s Next, where designers who are partners of Who’s Next will host workshops. “We have to create side events. If we don’t come up with a more global offer, our job is going to die,” said Xavier Clergerie, cofounder of Who’s Next and Première Classe.
Who’s Next has also started a partnership with the Silmo eyewear fair in Paris, where it is to host 20 eyewear exhibitors, and vice versa (20 from Who’s Next are slated to go to Silmo), and also to introduce a “No Gender” area. In September, the show attracted 41,198 visitors — up 12 percent from the previous year, when the fair was held in July. Around 1,600 brands have signed up for Who’s Next and Première Classe, from Sept. 2 to 5 at the Porte de Versailles.
The major refurbishment of the Porte de Versailles site is expected to be complete by 2024. The seven halls are being renovated by big names in the world of architecture, including Jean Nouvel and Valode & Pistre.
Richard Martin, artistic director and deputy director of jewelry and watch show Bijorhca Paris, expects around 400 exhibiting brands. The fair is slated to coincide with Who’s Next, also at the Porte de Versailles, and Martin hopes will equal last year’s attendance of 13,447 visitors. In September, it will regroup designer brands and more fashion-forward labels under the “Premium” area, which will have 50 to 60 resources.
“We see that buyers are reluctant to buy designer brands,” Martin said, aiming to draw business for both categories.
Tranoï Paris Men’s, Women’s Pre-collections and Parfums are slated for June 25 to 27 on two sites, Cité de la Mode et du Design and Palais de la Bourse. The new name, which replaces Tranoï Homme and Preview, is to reflect a goal to become more international, organizers said.