The future of fashion apparel and accessories is dark and dramatic with shimmering bits of gold and silver, according to the product selections at this year’s Première Vision New York.
Textiles and leather for the fall 2018 season were displayed this week at Pier 94. The event, in its third year in New York, has grown to an edited assortment of more than 320 weavers, leather producers, accessories companies, design studios and manufacturers located worldwide.
A romantic and moody leitmotif defined this year’s showing, as textile designs led with sparkling constellations, shades of enigmatic dark tones, warm romantic florals and sparkling silvers and golds emerging from darker, more dramatic shades. Purples, dark blues and “dark on dark” hues were complemented by cold neons and optimistic, bold, abstract designs. Semitransparent worsted wools, laser-carved patterns, “tactile” textures and muted lusters further exemplified the theme, which was juxtaposed by “peaceful” camouflage prints in cool-toned or nontraditional patterns.
The revival of artful aesthetics incorporated fuchsias, lavenders, bright oranges, golds and bronze tones, as well as “British parody” textiles that express eccentricity and employ the use of figurative prints. Digital prints in a wide range of colors included cloudy pixellations and digital blurs.
Nikki Martinkovic, the owner of Nikki Martinkovic Design Studio in New York, said the market is demanding differentiation.
“Obviously with retail not doing very well, it’s really affected the print market and how people look at prints,” Martinkovic said. “Before people had massive budgets and they could buy whatever they wanted and analyze it, but now they’re being more specific.”
“Because the fashion world is so saturated, they’re really wanted to buy prints that are super colorful or differentiate themselves from other people,” she explained. “At this show we’ve been selling a lot of conversationals,” — or fabrics that start a conversation.
This season also welcomes “generously cozy” fabrics and a return to soft casualwear, which could be described as a more opulent variety of ath-leisure. An emphasis on velvets, dense wools, terries, corduroys and supple high-density fabrics, as well as alpaca and mohair blends, which were exhibited by top Peruvian manufacturers. Leathers this season featured waxy gleams while shearlings were designed with random “metallizations.”
Kate Honey, the creative director of Australia-based printhouse company Din+Bloom, told WWD that “a return to lush fabrics and coziness was seen throughout.”
“Historical-etched bloom is reinterpreted for [fall 2018] with newfound artistic refinement,” Honey said. “Air filled modernized layouts and inky grounds contrast with high chroma jeweled brights, [which] make for a truly exquisite contemporary botanica.”
The trend includes cut-work florals, which Honey said are “distilled down from heritage florals to represent [a] fresh form composition for a contemporary application.”
Honey agreed that “conversationals” are a prevailing theme of the season. “Sophisticated conversationals provide an opportunity to escape from the stressors of the modern-day with large-scale fantastical narratives to create an inspiring form of cultivated whimsy,” she told WWD.
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