By Lisa Lockwood
with contributions from Thomas Waller
 on September 24, 2019
Coterie will return in September to the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center.

It was an energetic market week around town as Coterie, Woman New York, Capsule and Cabana, among other trade shows, all descended upon New York.

Coterie at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center featured 1,300 brands, about 100 more than last year, according to Danielle Licata, president of Coterie and East Coast Womenswear at Informa, “Old brands returned and new and international brands joined,” she said.

Elsewhere around town, the Woman show, held at Spring Studios, had a total of 68 exhibitors and saw an increase of 15 percent in attendees.

At Capsule and Cabana, held at Piers 92/94, the Cabana section was marginally smaller than in past seasons with Liberty Fairs preferring to focus on a tighter curation. Capsule continued to include the Elements section, a group of indie beauty and accessory brands. Overall, both saw an increase of 10 percent in foot traffic.

Coterie’s Licata said traffic overall was up 8 percent versus last September’s Coterie.

Many booths, such as Misa Los Angeles, Lisa Todd, Lilla P, Ramy Brook Kinross, 525 America, Aldomartins, Shoshanna, Farm Rio, and Minnie Rose, were busy with retailers, although others were much quieter.

Among some of spring’s key trends at Coterie were bare shoulders, midi skirts, eyelet, blazers, utility jackets and pockets, wide-leg pants, suiting, the jumpsuit, flare jeans, color and graphics.

Additions to September’s show included Destination Coterie, which featured resortwear and warm weather travel lifestyle collections, and the relaunch of Tomorrow, which showcased emerging designers and a few accessories brands. The Vintage area had 20 booths, and there was a new installation in the lobby called Mommy and Me. There was also a section called Edit that had elevated European designs, and one featuring 30 Korean brands.

Coterie decided to go digital this year and eliminated all badges and show directories, allowing the company to save at least 15,000 units of paper and plastic from a landfill. For the first time, the show had an electronic badge (hard to figure out who the people were), and exhibitors were able to download the app. Buyers were also able to use the Coterie app to locate brands with sustainable practices. Brands were flagged based on information they provided to Coterie such as: ethical practices, social responsibility, eco- and animal-friendly and responsible production.

Walter Baker, owner of the New York-based sportswear company bearing his name, said they worked with a lot of new accounts at the show.

“People are loving our prints and our leather jackets,” he said. Among the season’s big trends are printed dresses, printed blouses, cargo pants and blouses with ruffles.

Chelsea Segall, vice president of sales at Misa Los Angeles, said the brand launched linen and cotton voile, and showed lots of dresses. They introduced knitwear a few seasons ago. Misa Los Angeles has been offering more elevated design techniques such as pin-tucking, pleating and raw edges. She said they opened several new accounts. For spring, the inspiration is a flora trip, featuring a whimsical lens with different florals.

“Business is great. We’ve seen lots of new accounts and we’re having a great reaction to the line,” said Lisa Shaller-Goldberg, owner and creative director of Minnie Rose. She’s said been getting reorders on the fall line.

The first spring offering is a safari-inspired group, featuring safari green, desert, sand and python in knits. She said the second spring delivery will be pastels, and summer features brights. For spring, prices have gone up 15 percent because of tariffs. She’s featuring cashmere and cotton, and everything is made in China. She noted that there are lower tariffs if brands use a cashmere blend, as opposed to all cashmere.

Sara Deinhard, a buyer for Wendy Foster, which has five stores, including units in Montecito and Santa Barbara, Calif., said she comes to Coterie for inspiration, to get a kick-start on the season and to see what styles people are pushing. Deinhard was checking out Minnie Rose. “Their colors are amazing. We take notes and write immediates,” she said. She carries Minnie Rose year-round, and the cashmeres work year-round.

Among other brands she was looking at: LoveShackFancy, Sourcery Label  and Velvet by Graham & Spencer.

Avenue Montaigne, known for its pant, has added skirts to its lineup and was doing well with its pleated skirts. It was also offering pants in a lot of new stripes for spring, as well as glen plaid and florals, wholesaling from $85 to $130. For spring, the brand is offering a linen program, with pants wholesaling from $115 to $130.

Peace of Cloth has done well with its knit and poplin shirt combination, as well as waxed cotton shirts, that are sized from XS to XL and wholesale from $60 to $65. “Our customer prefers a more polished shirt,” said Jaime Nortman, director of sales and business development. She was also offering jersey knits with embroidery wholesaling from $40 to $46. Overall, she said prices are staying the same.

Irene Caulfield, owner of Sabrina Style, a retailer in Sandy Hook, Conn., said she was shopping Coterie for formalwear, mother of the bride and guest of the wedding party, as well as prom. During the off-season, she looks for clothing that’s a little more casual and funkier for weddings. Among the brands she was eyeing was Farm Rio, the Brazilian company.

Mercado Magico, a multivendor e-commerce site owned by NeoMagic Corp., started carrying fashion a year ago. The site started with electronics, and now is offering fashion companies a chance to set up their own stores within the platform, said David Tomasello, chairman of NeoMagic Corp. and MercadoMagico.com. He was shopping Coterie looking for interested contemporary brands. He said Mercado will set up social media, such as TikTok and Pinterest, for the fashion brands and takes 8 percent, which includes credit card fees. “We’re looking at nothing over $500. It’s very accessible brands for the consumer,” he said.

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