Shimmering luminescence, contrasting metallics and sequined, sheer fabrics led the trends at Texworld USA, signaling a move toward gossamer high-shine textiles for spring 2020. Texworld’s winter edition was held at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center last week in New York. The show was colocated with Apparel Sourcing USA.
Embroidered iridescent fabrics and a dose of rainbow glam complemented a range of smoky taupes and prints across a newly defined color palate rich with café au lait shades, such as “washed out gum,” “satiny shell” and “crepuscular dune.” Opaque animal prints and camouflages look not just shiny but wet, which offers a less ethereal, more sophisticated tone to the season. Florals are less traditional and appear mostly as dewy, dramatic and oversize, while stripes are thick, bold and accented with subtle sparkle.
Jennifer Bacon, show director for Texworld USA and Apparel Sourcing USA, told WWD, “The winter edition of Texworld showcased fabrics from a diverse group of exhibitors located around the globe. The most requested segment remains to be sustainable fabrics such as Tencel, organic cottons, recycled polyesters in all types of fabrics in both knits and wovens. Despite the belief that sustainability is merely a trend, it continues to be a strong factor when designers are sourcing for their upcoming collections. Texworld has increased the awareness by bolstering its commitment to educating buyers on the availability of sustainable fabrics. This could be seen from the numerous educational platforms, exhibitor offerings to the resource areas on the show floor. In addition, over the last few seasons, the exhibitors have increased the focus on future trends. This season it was milk washes on denim to textured weaves, crochet effects, space dyed and twisted yarns.”
And as Texworld homed in on the sustainability movement, its seminars and Textile Talks reflected the industry’s changing tides, with niche offerings such as “Taking Harmful Chemicals Out of the Sustainability Equation” and “The Sustainable Journey of Reformation,” in addition to discussions focused on recycled and upcycled textiles, modern materials, tariffs and strategic sourcing. Texworld intentionally ramped up its education component, as achieving sustainability through the use of various streamlining technologies and procedures is still an amorphous and novel concept for many brands and retailers. Tricia Carey, director of global business development for denim at Lenzing Group, told WWD, “One of our more popular seminars at Texworld covered spinning technologies with Buhler, Murata and Reiter. Education about the nuances of each spinning system allows for proper product development and value.”
Its Resource Row featured sustainability solutions and textile technologies from companies such as Archroma, Bright Label, FabScrap, Helpsy, Queen of Raw and the Brooklyn Fashion + Design Accelerator, which aligned well with its “Elite Exhibitor” and “Low Minimum” delineations for showgoers, which underscores exhibitors that “demonstrate a consistent dedication to quality products and customer service”; have shown at Texworld for a minimum of five years, and exhibitors that can supply low batch orders, respectively.
Denim trends are sculptural, ripped and seen in a wide range of colors from purplish blue to light indigo hues, according to Peruvian family-owned firm Scheiller Jeans, who also said denim jumpsuits and overall shorts will be popular throughout the spring 2020 season. But perhaps most significant is denim’s transition toward sustainable manufacturing and environmental impact, which has influenced heritage and emerging brands to revamp existing practices that better align with “conscious consumer” demands and expectations that are currently being addressed in other aspects of the fashion industry. Carey added, “As there is a greater awareness of environmental impact, we see more textile developments which layer sustainability from fiber to weaving to dyeing/finishing, especially related to recycling and water impacts. Our Tencel and Tencel x Refibra lyocell are key ingredients to build a sustainable fabric foundation.”
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