First-time appearance at Coterie from StockX.

UBM Fashion’s Coterie trade show offers elevated contemporary apparel, accessories and footwear for women, but this year it didn’t disregard an industry-disrupting demand for vintage and resale. Organizers positioned the vintage activation at the 38th Street entrance to the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York with the goal of increasing accessibility and showcasing the presentations.

This year’s Vintage Coterie stage shadows prior year’s locations, which was “confusing for people,” according to Bridgette Morphew, owner of Morphew luxury vintage boutique. Coterie wrapped up earlier this week.

On display were “unique and luxury curations” from Manhattan-based Morphew, Albany, N.Y.-based Metropolis, and for the first time, Detroit-based luxury resale marketplace for “hypebeasts” and handbag connoisseurs, StockX had a presence. Morphew said her business “pitched this idea to Coterie,” reiterating the “need to have this on the main floor.” Morphew, who’s set up shop at past renditions of Coterie, believes the new location solidifies greater accessibility for customers.

While the physical relocation of the vintage activation nods to common sense, it parallels a growing consumer taste for resale.

The resale market will reach a $41 billion valuation by 2022, according to ThredUp’s 2018 fashion resale report. With players at every major price point and target customer, including Depop, Rebag, The Real Real, Poshmark and more, the growth potential for “resale disruptors” is resounding at 49 percent compared to lags in traditional retail.

In the luxury resale business, Coterie is just one physical touchpoint for dealers to interface with the industry. A Current Affair, a traveling three-city show for vintage sellers, and similarly Manhattan Vintage Show, also offer customer-facing sales opportunities which “curate” a crowd of vintage enthusiasts.

Also showing previously at Coterie, Rosemary Lazaro, owner of Metropolis Vintage, added: “It’s a totally different show than Manhattan Vintage show,” with a different pace.

Resourceful and relevant, the vintage pieces at Coterie represent the same trends, leering towards sophistication and a push for “dressing up,” present on the upper floors, as mentioned by Morphew stylist Bruce Estevez.

Morphew Vintage stylist Bruce Estevez holding one of his pulls for Coterie.  Kaley Roshitsh/WWD

First time at Coterie, StockX puts the emphasis on their handbag vertical — placing Balenciaga, Gucci and the like on slatted shelves for customer perusal.

“Being at Coterie not only gives us [StockX] the unique ability to have person-to-person contact with existing users, but affords us the opportunity to introduce the platform to those who may not know about StockX,” said Katie Booth, merchandising manager, bags and accessories at StockX.

Founded in 2015, StockX is aiming to fill gaps in the resale market and is using its presence at Coterie alongside a larger temporary retail strategy. Within their authentication “drop-off” locations at London, Los Angeles and New York, they cater to sneakers and streetwear markets, but are not offering handbag services at any location currently.

As Coterie demonstrated this year, vintage isn’t relegated to the back of closet. In line with consumer demand — luxury resale is front and center.

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