ABOUT TIMES: The Helmut Lang men’s show in Paris on Sunday represented a homecoming of sorts for Cathy Horyn. Since October 2002, the designer has barred The New York Times critics from his shows, saying he simply didn’t like the paper’s point of view on fashion. Meanwhile, Horyn — who has described Lang’s women’s clothes as heavy, overthought and gimmicky in the past — said she was “thrilled” to receive an invitation. “Two years is a long time. Too long,” she said. Horyn is expected to review Lang’s show in a report on the Paris men’s shows today. — Miles Socha
This story first appeared in the July 6, 2004 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
NEW YORKER IF BY LAND, ALLURE IF BY SEA: It’s not always smooth sailing for Advance Publications (owner of WWD and the Condé Nast titles mentioned here), what with the occasional leaks, unexpected turns to navigate and impetuous skippers at the helm — and that’s just at North Cove Yacht Harbor in Battery Park City, where Advance has been sponsoring the Manhattan Sailing School and Yacht Club since shortly after Sept. 11, 2001. Each boat in the 19-vessel fleet flies the flag of a Condé Nast brand (18 magazines plus CondéNet), though rivalries between boats are discouraged. “We don’t allow people to choose which flag they sail under,” said Michael Fortenbaugh, the sailing school’s director. “If we did, there’d be rumbles on the dock — everyone would want the same boat!” Fortenbaugh, who is married to Sharon Phair, associate publisher of Paper magazine (which isn’t owned by Advance), declined to say which boat that would be. However, these days, the crowd favorite is unlikely to be boat number 10, the bearer of the New Yorker flag, which met with trouble on the water in mid-June. “Boat 10 ran aground during the Round Liberty race,” said Fortenbaugh, who was quick to fault the sailing team manning the vessel, not the boat itself. “They tried to go the wrong way around Liberty Island.” Right. Those New Yorker folks are soooo neoteric.
During the recent Spring Series regatta, Allure and Cargo both won on consecutive race days. “Let’s just hope it translates to the newsstand,” said Allure editor in chief Linda Wells, who on weekends is taking sailing lessons with her sons at the Sag Harbor Sailing School. “I grew up sailing at the Indian Harbor Yacht Club in Greenwich,” Wells said, “which is also where I learned to swear.” Meanwhile, the similarly salty Graydon Carter will be pleased to know that smoking is allowed on The Flying Dutchman. And yes, that would be the boat for Vanity Fair. — Sara James
PRECIOUS CARGO: Editor in chief Ariel Foxman has broken his vow to use only nonmodels in the pages of Cargo — even if it’s only ex post facto. Last month, Cory Osborne, who in April graced the first cover of the men’s shopping magazine (like WWD, part of Advance Publications Inc.), signed with the Ford Modeling Agency. Now it looks as if the Canadian cutey has landed a Rockport advertising deal and is close to signing a contract to model for an undisclosed clothing company, making him the first Cargo face likely to reappear — in the magazine’s ad pages. (Rockport recently signed on as a Cargo advertiser.) Senior photo editor Stephanie Prepon “discovered” Osborne while “shopping” at the Union Square farmer’s market in Manhattan. He was squeezing tomatoes, she was squeezing biceps….Suddenly, Osborne was on a plane to the cover shoot in Miami with photographer Eric Cahan. Posing in front of the camera is a role reversal of sorts for Cory, a career photo assistant whose day job has paired him with Carter Smith, Annie Leibovitz and Peggy Sirota. Said Cargo creative director Donald Robertson: “It was so cute. In between takes, he was loading rolls of film and moving equipment.”
Regular guys aspiring to mannequin status should note that Prepon, who now frequently receives phone calls from modeling agencies scouting new talent, continues to patrol Union Square. — S.J.
CARR CULTURE: Get ready for a lot more stories about the sociological significance of Atoosa Rubenstein’s shrimp habit. In a move reminiscent of the Howell Raines era, The New York Times is reconfiguring its media coverage to put more emphasis on its cultural aspects. First came the news that media editor Lorne Manly would take up pen once again as chief media writer. Now David Carr, who covers magazine publishing, is moving into a different role, one that could be preliminary to his moving off the media beat altogether. Times cultural news editor Jonathan Landman said Friday that Carr is expanding his scope beyond the business of media. “He wants to be able to spread his wings a little wider, and I think that’s fine,” said Landman, who was recently tasked to quarterback an overhaul of all of the Times’ cultural coverage. “David’s a guy with huge talent.” Landman did not specify how Carr’s role will change except to say that he will write for both the business and culture sections, reporting to a new editor within the culture department who will be named by the end of the summer. While the changes are part of a broader shuffle that also will affect the paper’s TV and book coverage, a source close to the paper said Carr has been pushing to move away from the media beat, which he has covered for the last four years, since his days as part of the failed Web start-up Inside.com. Asked about this, Carr referred questions to Landman, who said Carr will remain the go-to guy on magazines “for now. There could be changes later.” — Jeff Bercovici