A Vhernier necklace.

MILAN Signaling the dynamism in branded luxury jewelry, Italian maker Vhernier is in play, according to market sources.

A book has started circulating on the Milan-based firm, and it is expected to attract considerable interest given that the business is growing, profitable and has upside potential to increase its retail footprint in various geographies, including Asia, the sources said.

Founded in 1984 with a goldsmith’s workshop in Valenza that remains to this day, Vhernier counts about 15 boutiques, with London among the more recent openings. It is growing rapidly in the U.S., which is said to account for around 40 percent of the brand’s business. It counts flagships in New York, Beverly Hills and Miami and wholesale accounts including Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue.

According to its web site, Vhernier has been controlled by the Traglio family since 2001 through its Aura Holding company.

Known for its sculptural gold jewelry, colorful gemstones and shapes inspired by contemporary art, the brand also makes watches and small selections of such accessories as cuff links, pens, bags and money clips. Its core collection starts at around 3,000 euros and runs up to 80,000 euros, while high-jewelry pieces can run into six and seven figures.

Popular styles include the Calla and Blue Velvet necklaces, the Pirouette ring and Vague earrings. Celebrity aficionados span from Jessica Biel to Jane Fonda.

Sources describe the company as similar in size to another Italian specialty jeweler, Buccellati.

The fine-jewelry market is slated to grow at a 3.5 percent clip every year for the next six years, according to market research company Euromonitor International.

It is understood Vendôme Global Partners is involved in the sale process. Calls placed to the New York-based firm went unreturned.

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