LONDON – Burberry’s show during London Fashion Week wowed buyers, who raved about Riccardo Tisci’s debut collection and his blend of sophistication and street. They also pointed to neon brights as a strong trend and said that emerging talent — usually so powerful in the British capital — didn’t have much to say.
Roopal Patel, fashion director of Saks Fifth Avenue, said Tisci’s debut collection was “sophisticated, elegant and advanced with a street component,” while Lydia King, director of women’s wear at Selfridges, said that “color and opulence are on an even higher volume” and “more is more” in London.
Riccardo Tortato, men’s fashion director at Tsum, said he was underwhelmed by the younger talent in town. “There was nothing particularly interesting on the new side,” he said, adding that the more established brands such as Rejina Pyo, Molly Goddard and Roksanda managed to shake things up, stir interest and drive forward spring trends.
Here, a roundup of standout shows and highlights from retailers:
Roopal Patel, fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue
Favorite Collections: J.W. Anderson, Simone Rocha, Victoria Beckham and Burberry. Riccardo Tisci’s debut collection for Burberry was sophisticated, elegant and advanced with a street component. Staying true to the codes of the house, his modern take on the trench, the updated stripe in heritage colors and the new logo felt elevated.
Top Trends: There were a lot of things going on this season. Colors ranged from bold and vibrant to soft pastels and color blocking. There were a lot of monochromatic suits, oversize blazers, long skirts and long and pouf sleeves. Other details included fringe, crochet, macramé, feathers, patchwork, embroidery and stripes.
Best Venue: The converted Royal Mail warehouse for Riccardo Tisci’s debut collection for Burberry set the tone for one of the most anticipated shows of the season.
Talent Scouting: Rejina Pyo is definitely one to watch.
Must-Have Item: A Burberry trench, a Burberry printed scarf and a Burberry Stripe.
Lydia King, director of women’s wear, Selfridges
Favorite Collections: Victoria Beckham’s 10th anniversary — celebrating a decade of one of our most popular designers with a collection marking this landmark moment was truly an honor to be a part of. Erdem continued his thoughtful research in the cool ‘historiana’ that has defined his brand.
Top Trends: Color and opulence are on even higher volume, more is more and Roksanda was beautiful.
Best Venue: Roland Mouret on the rooftop of the National Theatre.
Talent Scouting: Huishan Zhang is a brand we have nurtured and currently have as a pop-up in store. His show, in the Royal Academy, was amazing. He is going to go onto huge things as a key talent.
Must-Have Item: Peter Pilotto’s bags, Christopher Kane’s footwear, Victoria Beckham’s slim-fit slit trousers.
Riccardo Tortato, men’s fashion director, Tsum
Favorite collections: Erdem.
Top Trends: More formal and chic looks.
Best Venue: Burberry.
Talent Scouting: There was nothing particularly interesting on the new side.
Must-Have Item: The entire Burberry collection.
Elizabeth von der Goltz, global buying director, Net-a-Porter
Favourite Collections: J.W. Anderson, Victoria Beckham, Rejina Pyo, Burberry
Top Trends: What I noticed the most about London is the amazing sense of color, be it the mixing of color seen at Roksanda, Rejina Pyo and J.W. Anderson but we even saw it at Emilia Wickstead, where unusual and beautiful colors were combined together.
Best Venue: Anya Hindmarch’s amazing crazy cloud installation and Trader Vic’s tiki bar for the Peter Pilotto show was fun.
Talent Scouting: One thing I always love about London is the positive energy and great fashion. A favorite brand of mine this season was Pushbutton, who Net-a-Porter have championed for the last few seasons.
Must-have Item: Burberry’s crystal low kitten heel sandal, Burberry’s trench coat with pearls and J.W. Anderson’s disc bag that walked the runway and launched at Net-a-Porter exclusively on Sunday.
Mario Grauso, president, Holt Renfrew
Favorite Collections: Victoria Beckham, Simone Rocha and Burberry.
Top Trends: There were a lot of trench coats and soft layers. Color palettes were mostly neutral with the exception of a lot of red and flat shoes.
Best Venue: My favorite venue was Simone Rocha’s Lancaster house.
Must-Have Item: The white suit on Stella Tennant at Victoria Beckham and the quilted jacket with pencil skirt on Stella again, at Burberry, as well as the feather trim, slingback at Simone Rocha and any of her red looks.
Maria Milano, general merchandise manager and head of women’s wear, Harrods
Favorite Collections: London had a lot of highlights this season and my favorite collections include Peter Pilotto, Emilia Wickstead, Delpozo and Burberry.
Top Trends: There were a lot of ruffles, dusty pastels, bows, slouchy suits and Victoriana vibes.
Best Venue: The rooftop of the National Theatre for Roland Mouret’s show.
Talent Scouting: We have picked up Preen for spring-summer ’19.
Must-Have Item: A ruffled dress, and anything Burberry.
Ida Petersson, women’s wear buying director, Browns
Favorite Collections: Molly Goddard, Halpern, Burberry, Roksanda and Rejina Pyo.
Top Trends: Colors ranged from neons to pale tones, such as lilac and yellow, and then to beige and neutrals. There was also a lot of tie-dye, combat trousers, colored tailoring and collections inspired by surfer culture.
Best Venue: Burberry’s venue at The South London Mail Centre.
Talent Scouting: Fashion East always delivers and Asai was particularly strong this season.
Must-Have Item: The trench coat with the scarf inlay from Burberry — this was major!
Tyler Franch, fashion director, Hudson’s Bay
Favorite Collections: J.W. Anderson, Simone Rocha and Erdem.
Top Trends: There were neons and dusty pastel colors; crochet and netting and for silhouettes, the blazer and suiting continue to be strong.
Best Venue: Lying atop the world’s largest beanbag inside the historical Westminster’s Banqueting House at the Anya Hindmarch presentation.
Must-Have Item: J.W. Anderson’s crochet mixed blazer and pants, Christopher Kane’s skeleton tops and dresses, Simone Rocha’s micro floral appliqué and anything acid yellow.
Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director, Neiman Marcus
Favorite Collections: Mary Katrantzou, Simone Rocha, Erdem, Victoria Beckham and Roland Mouret.
Top Trends: The overt romanticism that informed every runway defined by lace, ruffles, flounces, sweet prints, candy-coated colors and flowing hemlines that drop to the floor or sway in the breeze with handkerchief hems. Apricot is the new pink! Hats are back with the unexpected mystery and seduction of a veiled face appearing on many runways. Oversize bows decorating everything.
Best Venue: The National Portrait Gallery showcasing Erdem’s collection of eccentric Edwardian gowns with his gender-blended casting and The National Theatre rooftop garden showcasing Roland Mouret’s chicly effortless collections of relaxed tailoring, dresses and separates.
Must-Have Item: The Lace Day Frock, with hemlines that drop to the floor, filled with romantic details and decorated with a big bow.
Linda Fargo, senior vice president of Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite Collections: Michael Halpern, Simone Rocha, Roland Mouret, J.W. Anderson, Richard Quinn and Burberry.
Top Trends: We’re looking for personality and developed signatures in London more than trends. We’re also not looking for strong unifying trend statements here but we’ve seen sweet dessert colors, easy new suiting and dramatic “ couture” inspired volumes.
Best Venue: London designers smartly maximize the city’s incredible modern, historical and chose unlikely locations and venues which perfectly set off their collections. Most notable were Burberry’s gleaming venue in Battersea, Simone’s evocative presentation in Lancaster House and the immersion in nature within the city, amidst the waving grasses on the rooftop for Roland Mouret’s show on the National Theater’s rooftop.