NEW YORK — Claudie Pierlot in May will launch at Bloomingdale’s in SoHo and the 59th Street flagship — a year ahead of schedule.
Frederic Biousse, chief executive officer of Groupe SMCP in France and ceo of SMCP USA, which operates the brand, said the reason is the strong performance at Bloomingdale’s of sister brands Sandro and Maje. “All of a sudden, [Bloomingdale’s] offered us the space,” he said. “They are positively surprised by the performance of Sandro and Maje. We are extremely reactive on opportunities.”
The brand is exciting interest in other quarters as well. “Harvey Nichols has asked us if they can open Claudie Pierlot in London,” Biousse said.
Claudie Pierlot, which offers chic yet affordable designs for feminine young women, is part of Groupe SMCP, which is 51 percent owned by L Capital, the private equity arm of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.
“If it goes well in the first month, we’ll look for a retail store for Claudie Pierlot in New York and propose the brand to other department stores,” Biousse said, noting that Claudie Pierlot is more classic than the fashion-oriented Sandro and Maje.
Claudie Pierlot’s U.S. expansion strategy will mirror that of Sandro and Maje. SMCP uses department store real estate staffed by its own employees to gain exposure for its brands, along with special events such as barber shops for men and makeup-instruction sessions for women.
“We try to be different,” Biousse said. “We do the necessary advertising in fashion magazines, but we also like to advertise on phone booths, taxi cabs and buses. Department stores immediately bring us traffic and give us immediate credibility. We play the game with them, and design exclusive things for them.”
Sandro and Maje helped usher in a wave of European labels at retailers such as Bloomingdale’s. “Brands from outside the U.S. is where I find newness,” Frank Doroff, vice chairman and general merchandise manager of ready-to-wear and bloomingdales.com, said in 2011 when Sandro launched. “I’m working to get more European brands into more locations.”
Sandro is among the top five resources at Bloomingdale’s, according to Biousse. “In Europe, we’re the first brand in all department stores,” he said. Sandro does sales of $2 million to $3 million in 1,000 square feet at Bloomingdale’s, Biousse said. Freestanding stores with 1,000 square feet do $2.5 million in the first year and $3.5 million in the second. Smaller stores are even more productive, ringing up $800,000 to $1 million in 350 square feet to 400 square feet. Biousse said sales results indicate that “people understand the brands.”
Sandro on Thursday will unveil a 1,200-square-foot store at 150 Spring Street here. A subsequent Columbus Avenue unit will be its fifth Manhattan location. Stores are opening in Greenwich, Conn., Filmore Street in San Francisco and Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas. The brand is looking for a flagship near Mercer Street in Manhattan and units in the Flatiron District and Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Sandro is closing in on a site in Los Angeles and two units in Miami. In April, Sandro will open shops-in-shop at Nordstrom and Hudson’s Bay as part of its push into department stores.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)