NEW YORK — Claudie Pierlot in May will launch at Bloomingdale’s in SoHo and the 59th Street flagship — a year ahead of schedule.
Frederic Biousse, chief executive officer of Groupe SMCP in France and ceo of SMCP USA, which operates the brand, said the reason is the strong performance at Bloomingdale’s of sister brands Sandro and Maje. “All of a sudden, [Bloomingdale’s] offered us the space,” he said. “They are positively surprised by the performance of Sandro and Maje. We are extremely reactive on opportunities.”
The brand is exciting interest in other quarters as well. “Harvey Nichols has asked us if they can open Claudie Pierlot in London,” Biousse said.
Claudie Pierlot, which offers chic yet affordable designs for feminine young women, is part of Groupe SMCP, which is 51 percent owned by L Capital, the private equity arm of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.
“If it goes well in the first month, we’ll look for a retail store for Claudie Pierlot in New York and propose the brand to other department stores,” Biousse said, noting that Claudie Pierlot is more classic than the fashion-oriented Sandro and Maje.
Claudie Pierlot’s U.S. expansion strategy will mirror that of Sandro and Maje. SMCP uses department store real estate staffed by its own employees to gain exposure for its brands, along with special events such as barber shops for men and makeup-instruction sessions for women.
“We try to be different,” Biousse said. “We do the necessary advertising in fashion magazines, but we also like to advertise on phone booths, taxi cabs and buses. Department stores immediately bring us traffic and give us immediate credibility. We play the game with them, and design exclusive things for them.”
Sandro and Maje helped usher in a wave of European labels at retailers such as Bloomingdale’s. “Brands from outside the U.S. is where I find newness,” Frank Doroff, vice chairman and general merchandise manager of ready-to-wear and bloomingdales.com, said in 2011 when Sandro launched. “I’m working to get more European brands into more locations.”
Sandro is among the top five resources at Bloomingdale’s, according to Biousse. “In Europe, we’re the first brand in all department stores,” he said. Sandro does sales of $2 million to $3 million in 1,000 square feet at Bloomingdale’s, Biousse said. Freestanding stores with 1,000 square feet do $2.5 million in the first year and $3.5 million in the second. Smaller stores are even more productive, ringing up $800,000 to $1 million in 350 square feet to 400 square feet. Biousse said sales results indicate that “people understand the brands.”
Sandro on Thursday will unveil a 1,200-square-foot store at 150 Spring Street here. A subsequent Columbus Avenue unit will be its fifth Manhattan location. Stores are opening in Greenwich, Conn., Filmore Street in San Francisco and Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas. The brand is looking for a flagship near Mercer Street in Manhattan and units in the Flatiron District and Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Sandro is closing in on a site in Los Angeles and two units in Miami. In April, Sandro will open shops-in-shop at Nordstrom and Hudson’s Bay as part of its push into department stores.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews