PARIS — A decade after launching their art-influencers fashion label, Each x Other cofounders Jenny Mannerheim and Ilan Delouis are getting ready to lay down roots in a city they feel embodies the same mix of art and fashion — Miami.
“We were one of the first to use clothes as a canvas, to be collaborative and do capsules [with artists]. It’s part of our DNA,” said creative director Delouis, mentioning some of the people they have worked with over the years, including graffiti artist Alec Monopoly, designer Dilara Findikoglu, Dazed Media cofounder and chief executive officer Jefferson Hack, and Robert Montgomery, the artist whose text art led to the brand’s creation.
To celebrate its new U.S. base, where Mannerheim has moved and where they are opening an office, the French label is planning a runway show in June during Miami’s Art Basel to coincide with the 10th anniversary of their collection arriving in stores in 2012.
A flagship is also slated to open in September as part of an ambitious overhaul that Delouis hopes will take the label from its current 7 million euros in sales in 2021 to a projected 30 million euros in 2022 and a 2023 target of 100 million euros.
Opening in the U.S. was also driven by a shift in the brand’s consumer base. According to Delouis, since the pandemic, the U.S. has replaced Asia as their biggest market and now accounts for 50 percent of the label’s sales. The U.K. is second, at around 25 percent.
The brand has also decided to untether itself from the wholesale retail cycle, going fully direct-to-consumer. “This also allows us to become more approachable [to clients] because where we were around 2,000 euros for a leather jacket, now we will be around 500 for the same luxury product,” he said, adding that the label had sunset its wholesale accounts as of fall 2021 and closed its stores in Paris, Japan and Korea in the past 18 months.
Cue the other storefront Mannerheim and Delouis have been revamping: the digital one. In addition to an exclusive partnership with Farfetch, which will also debut in June, the Each x Other website will relaunch following an overhaul that will add functionalities like virtual try-on using augmented reality.
Come the launch, consumers will find a wide array of styles, following thematic subsets such as streetwear-inspired “preppy heritage,” outerwear-heavy “resculpt classics” and basics. The pair intend to “touch different clients or the same one at different moments of their day” by offering an extra-wide range that goes from casual T-shirts and sweatshirts to fashion-forward hybrids and flirty party numbers.
Bestsellers from the past decade, like the Breton-stripe-inspired biker jacket, will make appearances, while a “conscious lab” line will start bringing more sustainable textiles into the mix, from recycled fibers to water-based vegan furs. Delouis indicated this amounted to around 20 percent of the collection, with plans to grow it to 50 percent by spring 2023.
But that doesn’t mean Each x Other is letting go of brick-and-mortar doors, as it plans three-month pop-ups in capitals with a strong art focus. For 2022, the destinations will include New York, Berlin and London, where they recently also held an exhibition retracing their first 10 years.
“The ambition is to become a lifestyle brand, but also a platform with different collaborative lines — a Colette of sorts, a concept store,” he explained, adding that the brand plans to explore kids’ wear, pet gear or home goods over the next five years.
And that’s not the only thing the Each x Other site will lead to in their road map. Delouis outlined plans to “create a community and give a form of exclusivity to clients,” through limited-edition products created with artists and master classes with creatives, accessible through a subscription-based model.
Eventually the creative director imagines Each x Other’s digital footprint could even be extended into a social network as “a place to talk about fashion, art, culture and creation,” he said.