As part of an effort by the Global Fashion Agenda focused on sustainable and circular production in fashion, 64 companies have submitted “targets” for increased sustainable design, garment collection, repurposing and the use of recycled textiles by 2020. Companies that set targets include Kering, Zara owner Inditex, Adidas, Asos, Eileen Fisher, Ganni, H&M, Target, VF Corp. and Reformation, among others, all of which committed to this movement last year.
While GFA and corporate sustainability advisor BSR made recommendations for the targets, their “ambition” was left up to each company, but their involvement represents 7.5 percent of the global fashion market. Each company will be required to publicly report on their progress yearly and an initial “progress report” will be published in May.
Eva Kruse, GFA’s chief executive officer said she’s been “very curious” over the last several months about each company’s goals.
“We have now reviewed all 143 of the [individual] targets, and although the focus areas and level of engagement vary from company to company, they all share a common feature by taking steps to transition to a circular fashion industry,” Kruse said. “I find that very encouraging.”
The level of involvement with each company indeed varies. Adidas for example only committed to increasing its collection of used garments, and said it would roll out a collection system in key market stores like Paris, London, New York and Los Angeles.
Meanwhile Asos, an online retailer with its own wide range of fast-fashion apparel, said by 2020 its entire design team would be trained in circular design and best practices, a garment collection and recycling program will be introduced in the U.K. and Germany coupled with a customer engagement campaign, and its use of recycled materials will increase “whilst eradicating those that cannot be cycled,” the company said.
H&M seems to have one of the broadest plans, coinciding with previously announced efforts to become 100 percent circular and renewable. The chain said by 2020 it will have rolled out a training program on sustainable materials and practices to “applicable” employees aimed at circularity in design as well as store interiors. It also intends to collect at least 25,000 tons of used garments annually, increase reselling by at least 40 percent and provide 5.8 million euros to research on textile recycling.
Anna Gedda, H&M’s head of sustainability, another of the company’s goals “is to only use recycled or other sustainably sourced materials by 2030 and to become climate positive throughout our entire value chain by 2040 at the latest.”
On the luxury side, Kering seems to be leading the way, with plans to have 100 percent of the design teams across all of its brands, including Gucci, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga and Stella McCartney, already a leader in cruelty-free and sustainable design, trained in circular design standards. The company added that by 2020, it will have identified “the most promising pre-and post-consumer raw material recycling technologies for luxury and will start scaling them up the supply chain.”
François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chairman and ceo, has been championing sustainability efforts for some time, positioning a more environmentally friendly approach as simply good business. Last year, the company said it would reduce its overall environmental footprint, or its demand on nature and natural resources, by 40 percent from 2015 levels.
Among all of the 64 companies, collection of used garments is the most common effort elected to be undertaken by the 2020 deadline. But many of the brands are also looking to increase the resale of their goods through their own channels. Among those with plans to resell more of their own goods are Ganni, Eileen Fisher, Nudie Jeans and Reformation.
For More, See: