LONDON — Gieves & Hawkes has its eye on international wholesale expansion, and will begin selling exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman in mid-August and Isetan in Tokyo in September. Earlier this week, the brand, which is located at No. 1 Savile Row, opened a shop-in-shop on the ground floor of Harrods.
“Harrods, Isetan, Bergdorf Goodman — these stores represent modern luxury for us, and what we are selling is extremely reflective of No. 1 Savile Row,” said Jason Basmajian, who was formerly the brand’s creative director and is now its chief creative officer. He added that, going forward, wholesale rollout would be very controlled.
The deal with Bergdorf’s marks the first time that Gieves is wholesaling its top collection in the U.S., although at one time it did have a licensing agreement in the market.
The brand, which will be located on the second floor at Bergdorf’s, near Berluti, Tom Ford, Ralph Lauren Black Label and Giorgio Armani, will also offer made-to-measure. Gieves will be taking part in a storewide made-to-measure event that will run during the second half of September. Ready-to-wear suit prices will start at around $3,000, while made-to-measure will be around $4,000. Bergdorf’s has a one-year exclusive with Gieves, and will stock most of the range, excluding shoes and bags. Later this year, Gieves also plans to introduce its bespoke service to Bergdorf’s, and its tailors will travel from London to fulfill the orders.
“Gieves and Hawkes is a storied Savile Row brand with a rich, royal heritage and when I heard Jason Basmajian was brought on as creative director, I was immediately intrigued,” said Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman. “He has proven throughout his career to have an innate understanding of how to blend history with modernity in an incredibly luxurious way in both tailored clothing and sportswear. I previewed the line when he was next in New York, and subsequently at their presentations during London Collections: Men, where he made it immediately clear that this brand has resonance today as an aspirational, wearable wardrobe perfect for the Goodman’s very affluent, discerning customer.”
In September, Gieves will break into the Japanese market with a space at Isetan in Tokyo’s Shinjuku neighborhood, and will also begin selling on Matchesfashion.com, and in Harvey Nichols in Baku, Azerbaijan. Come November, Mr Porter.com and Brown Thomas in Ireland will be stocking the pre-spring collection.
Harrods is home to Gieves’ first fully furnished shop that mirrors the interiors of its Savile Row flagship, the refurbishment of which will be complete in September. Basmajian worked with the interior designer Teresa Hastings on the store’s new look that features smoked oak, bronze and brass details, gray stone, gray flannel fabric and navy rugs.
The designer said he is also at work on a bespoke scented candle for the brand, because “the sensory experience is important as part of the total package” of the brand experience.
The shop-in-shop on Harrods’ ground floor is near Kiton, Brioni and Canali. It spans 370 square feet and sells the full lifestyle collection, including tailoring, outerwear, weekend wear and accessories. It offers made-to-measure, but not bespoke. It has been fitted with a hand-woven carpet, gray flannel fabrics, bespoke iron rails with brass and bronze details and smoked oak
A digital window near the store’s Basil Street entrance will launch on Aug. 1.
Gieves has been up to more than wholesale expansion. Basmajian said there is a retail rollout plan for the medium term, but declined to give further details. The brand has 10 stores in the U.K., including the Savile Row flagship, 113 retail stores in Mainland China and one store in Hong Kong.
In late October, Gieves plans to publish a book with Flammarion called “One Savile Row: The Invention of the English Gentleman,” that looks at the history of Gieves and its famous home. A year in the making, the book will feature a mix of archival and contemporary images, and underline the brand’s past and present work for the British military and royal court. The foreword is by Harold Koda, curator-in-charge of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Basmajian said he sees history repeating itself all the time on Savile Row. “We see the son as well as the father coming in — and customers asking us to recut their grandfathers’ suits,” he said.