Which way for Fred Segal?

That’s the question in the market for the iconic Los Angeles brand that built a name for itself carrying a highly curated assortment of shops-in-shop under a single roof.

The company tried its hand at a number of moves, not many of which have stuck, begging the question of whether its latest endeavor — the opening of a flagship in the Los Angeles market — will take hold.

Fred Segal closed its Santa Monica location last year and severed ties with its original Melrose Avenue door when that building was sold. The firm counts a Fred Segal at Los Angeles International Airport and three stores in Japan. September will see the opening of a 22,000-square-foot store at Sunset and La Cienega Boulevards in West Hollywood.

The space will carry the first West Coast CFDA store, along with brands such as Atelier & Repairs, Libertine, Levi’s and Ralph Lauren’s Double RL. There will also be a Fred Segal Café by Tartine, wine shop and new restaurant concept from Bill Chait.

“Each shop-in-shop was selected to embody something that is truly ‘Fred Segal,’” the company’s chief executive officer Allison Samek said recently with the latest round of brand announcements.

Sandow acquired a majority stake in the business in 2012 and had ambitious plans to take the brand global. Sandow later brought on Evolution Media Partners, which is a joint venture between Creative Artists Agency, TPG Growth and Participant Media.

In 2014, the company opened an outpost at the SLS Las Vegas hotel but left in 2015. Last year, the company confirmed it had taken up 20,000 square feet in Playa Vista but later shifted the focus to Sunset and La Cienega. Last August, it looked to re-enter apparel with the launch of the Fred by Fred Segal collection but later switched the focus to call it more of a private label endeavor.

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