Fashion at the mall is starting to look a lot better, thanks to new energy and marketing initiatives at two of America’s major retail chains.
On a chilly day just before Thanksgiving, a group of well-heeled L.A. women were rushing racks of J. Crew feather-trimmed cotton poplin shirts, bright yellow bouclé jackets, pink velvet blazers and black crystal-covered satin pouch bags, as the brand’s women’s creative director Olympia Gayot looked on nearby.
They weren’t at a store, but rather the tony private club San Vicente Bungalows, where the brand hosted a gifting suite and Gayot hobnobbed with Diane Keaton, Amy Adams, Elizabeth Banks and Ali Wong as they picked up goodies at the event, which was organized by influencer marketing agency The A List.
As J. Crew celebrates 40 years in 2023, Gayot has emerged as a style inspiration the likes of which the brand hasn’t seen since Jenna Lyons, and her designs are beginning to resonate with consumers at all levels.
Her weekly outfit roundups have become a must-follow on TikTok, where she posts herself in the brand’s newest looks, sparking desire among users for silver pants, slip dresses and mixing bright colors like pink and yellow.
Her rising profile, which has included features in Vogue and Fashionista, is one of several signs that J. Crew Group, parent of the J. Crew, Madewell and Crewcuts brands, is in turnaround mode.
On the men’s side, Brandon Babenzien of Noah and Supreme fame has generated similar buzz pushing giant chinos and the recent collaboration with Japanese label Beams.
Profitability has returned, and investments have been made in technology, omni-capabilities, refreshing stores, and in launching catalogs again, chief executive officer Libby Wadle told WWD.
J. Crew released a buzzy holiday social media marketing campaign with married actors Jodie Turner Smith and Joshua Jackson, following earlier 2022 campaigns with Keaton, Julianne Moore, Sadie Sink and others. The brand has also hinted that it may return to New York Fashion Week.
The 40th anniversary will bring seasonal collections on both the men’s and women’s sides, as well as more partnerships and collaborations.
Meanwhile, at the beleaguered Gap Inc., Banana Republic has been a bright spot. Sales grew 8 percent during the fourth quarter year-over-year to $517 million, with comparable sales rising 10 percent year-over-year.
Like J. Crew, Banana Republic has been a hot topic on TikTok, where the $400 Vida tote bag became a viral sensation. “They’re trying to give a Khaite-meets the Row-meets Western vibe,” one user posted, singling out the bag, a fringed check coat and pleated corduroy pants in the fall collection. “Don’t get me wrong, the price tag is steep, but they are definitely making a jump in their design.”

Banana Republic has also been doing some insider couples’ seeding, dressing “Tell Me Lies” on-screen and off-screen pair Grace Van Patten and Jackson White in cozy puffers, sweaters and cargo pants for a holiday shopping jaunt photo op in December.
Sandra Stangl, Banana Republic’s president and CEO, has been working to elevate the image (and the price points) of the brand, including launching new BR Baby and BR Athletics categories. She has streamlined the store count and refreshed the interiors but is still searching for a chief brand officer — presumably someone who would take to social media like Gayot.