Zana Bayne, the leather handbag and accessories designer with an S&M bent, has opened a pop-up shop at 171 Elizabeth Street in Manhattan’s NoLIta neighborhood for her collection. Store hours are 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily through July 24.
All styles and colors from Bayne’s Originals collection will be sold at the pop-up, as well as her new Highway Girl line, which features leather and chains, such as the Heartbreaker belted skirt for $750; the Heartbreaker mini signature handbag in black leather with layers of swinging chains, $575; the Annie Flame harness with halter-like fastenings, $275; and the Eve strap choker, a black leather band that splits into three straps, $185.
Bayne, who shares the role of creative director with Todd Pendu, said the brand has an upcoming collaboration with Black Comme de Garçons in late August, which will be distributed worldwide. The collection for the Rei Kawakubo-designed brand will consist of harnesses made of special gunmetal-plated hardware, Pendu said.
A partnership in September with & Other Stories “definitely takes from our classic styles but gives a new twist to them,” Bayne said. “There will be some new pieces, such as a wrap leather bra and a leather bustier. The pieces are made to layer over & Other Stories items.”
Bayne started making leather accessories and harnesses in 2009 after moving to New York from San Francisco by way of Berlin. Before she started designing, Bayne ran a nightlife and fashion blog called “Garbage Dress,” which showcased her style and the styles of personalities she met at parties. The blog introduced a harness that she wore and the requests to buy them followed.
Bayne, who counts Lady Gaga, Madonna, Zendaya, Beyoncé and Nicki Minaj as fans, drew the distinction between “celebs who wear our pieces casually and are personal fans of the brand,” and “the other set of things, when we’re designing custom looks for Beyoncé’s tour and 20 dancers. That’s commission work.”
After graduating with a BFA in conceptual art from the San Francisco Art Institute, Bayne moved to Berlin for a short time before permanently establishing herself in Manhattan. In the beginning, Bayne created leather products in her apartment. The brand is now produced by a team in Manhattan’s Garment District.
Pendu, who 2013 worked with Bayne on a small capsule collection for Opening Ceremony, subsequently became a creative partner in the company. Zana Bayne has also worked on capsules for Marc Jacobs and Prabal Gurung.
The brand is sold at Comme de Garcons in New York and Tokyo; Opening Ceremony, New York, Los Angeles and London; Dover Street Market, New York and London; Selfridges, London; and Net-a-porter. “Direct-to-consumer is the biggest part of our business,” Bayne said.
While Zana Bayne wouldn’t do ready-to-wear “until the timing was completely right,” Pendu said, the company is designing “a hybrid between rtw and being accessories. It includes shoes and hats, and now with the Highway Girl collection, there’s a vest that’s a deconstructed biker jacket. At some point it’s definitely a thought.”
A store is also definitely in Zana Bayne’s future, but until the brand is ready, there’s the pop-up shop and private shopping experiences for customers at the studio, by appointment.