Ralph & Russo Couture Fall 2020

Paris Couture Week’s top post belonged to Heart Evangelista, whose real name is Love Marie Payawal Ongpauco-Escudero, a Filipina actress, television host, artist, philanthropist and socialite. A series of Instagrams from the City of Light included one of Payawal Ongpauco-Escudero running her hand over tweed jackets and hanging on double-C hangers, presumably at a Chanel boutique.

While influencers have dominated fashion week conversations for some time, couture houses are taking control of the dialogue and leveraging their owned media channels, a fact that was evident during the recent Paris couture season, according to Launchmetrics.

The data technology company calculated the media impact value, or MIV, of the recent Paris Couture Week, using its proprietary algorithm, which measures the impact of placements and mentions from voices in fashion, luxury and beauty, across social media. Launchmetrics said the total media impact value of the period was $56.7 million, with $38.3 million spent on social media, and $18.4 million online.

“With the customer changing, there has been a question about couture’s place on the global fashion calendar,” said Alison Bringé, chief marketing officer of Launchmetrics. “How much of the couture houses’ owned social channels are creating an impact. During [ready-to-wear] fashion weeks, influencers lead the pack.

“For couture, 50 percent of the media impact value was coming from the [brands’] owned channels,” Bringé said. “With the way budgets are changing for traditional media, fewer [press] are going to Paris to cover the couture shows, and the brands are having to compensate. The couture shows are more of an experience and lend themselves to social media. Haute couture is about the dream, and brands can really tell this story.”

According to Launchmetrics, the top five brands’ owned media during Paris Couture Week were Chanel, with $7.7 million MIV; Dior, $3.6 million MIV; Ralph & Russo, $1.7 million MIV; Giorgio Armani, $1.3 million MIV, and Givenchy, $1.2 million MIV.

After Heart Evangelista, with $3.1 million, the next four influencers on the list were Romee Strijd with $278,000 MIV; Silvia Bussade Braz, $235,000 MIV; Negin Mirsalehi, $223,000 MIV, and Lana El Sahley, $200,000 MIV.

“[Ready-to-wear] brings out the most commercial influencers. Chiara Ferragni’s audience would be interested in couture, but they’re looking for more practical fashion,” Bringé said. “I see a difference between the influencers. The couture show is about building an aspirational story. These types of models and influencers are more elevated and less trend-focused.

“More brands are leveraging their owned media channels to share these moments with their audiences,” Bringé said. “They’re filming exclusive content for their owned channels. The concept of fashion week, whether it’s rtw or couture, is becoming geared more for a consumer audience than a B2B audience. The consumer audiences are highly engaged and brands are doing things to activate them.”

Launchmetrics noted that brands are now focusing on the quality, not quantity, of social media messages. “Brands’ posts on social media are decreasing, but the value of their posts is increasing. They’re getting savvier about how they create content and don’t need to be on every social media channel. Twitter is now controlled by the customer service team, not the marketing team,” Bringé said, an indication that the channel is no longer prioritized.