Soft knits and functional, sustainable materials were the focus for fall 2018 textiles at Texworld. The newest collections were shown at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center from July 17 to 19, which was colocated with Apparel Sourcing USA, Avanprint USA and Home Textiles Sourcing.
Texworld integrated fall textile trends, sustainability and technology into a succinct three-day event. What emerged was a lean toward textiles suitable for “lounge leisure,” a penchant for eco-friendly materials such as Tencel and Modal and the latest innovations in textile software and printing technologies.
“Lounge leisure,” a post-ath-leisure trend that spotlights cozy, soft knits, is indicative of a distinct departure from spandex and form-fitting athleticwear. Aligning with this shift in consumer preferences is circular knitter and textile provider SAS Textiles, a Los Angeles-based mill that works with premium denim brands such as Paige, Frame Denim and Re/Done. Michael Cohen, the sales manager of SAS Textiles, told WWD, “The ath-leisure trend is slowly scaling down. It’s being replaced by lounge leisure or what we refer to as lazy leisure, where you can be around the house, not the gym, and then go out dressed the same way. Fashion is beginning to come back, as are better quality goods.”
The popularity of fast fashion has pressured manufacturers to look domestically for production to keep up with the demands of the market. “Everyone I’ve come across is opening up some type of domestic avenue because the lead time for creation in Asia is close to six months and the fast fashion of 12 weeks is working very well. They want to be able to turn that quickly so they don’t miss any trends or styles,” Cohen added.
Asian textile manufacturers such as Shangxiang Textile Co., based in China, also identified fall 2018 as the season of “comfy” fabrics, with velveteen and “leisure time” knits leading most of its collections. Materials for niche athleticwear, such as luminescent textiles that glow in low-lit gym environments, are also on the rise according to All Magic Sports Co., a textile mill based in Taiwan.
The use of Lenzing’s sustainable Tencel and Modal materials were seen throughout Texworld’s selection. Answering the demand of sustainable fabrics is Laguna Fabrics Inc., a vertically integrated mill that operates out of downtown L.A. The company said it is honing in on Tencel blends, recycled cottons and polyesters and offers a range of “envirofabrics,” — or low-impact, high quality textiles — in premium jersey, novelty jersey, french terry, stripes and sweater knits, among other specialty fabrics.
Texworld also brought in the Queen of Raw, an e-commerce marketplace that provides raw material sourcing for buyers and sellers and Fab Scrap, a New York service that recycles fabric scraps, excess fabrics, cuttings, headers, mock-ups, overstock bolts and production remnants.
The debut of Avanprint USA saw the introduction of industry-related technologies such as textile design software, printers and sublimation ink. Available for demonstration was Lectra’s Kaledo, an in-depth textile design solution that significantly reduces lead times for designers, as well as leading textile printing technologies. Kornit Digital, a printing solution firm for the apparel, garment and textile industry, caters to the ascent of domestic textile printing.
Wayne Colbath, business development manager for the southeast region, told WWD, “Kornit Allegro allows manufacturers to keep up with fast fashion by being able to take a digital file and print short to long runs as quickly and as easily as possible.” Colbath added, “You can easily manipulate the files and do mass customization, personalization and data drops on a multitude of fabrics from many different cottons, polyester, Lycra, all on one machine.”
Additional technology firms exhibited at Texworld included Expand Systems, Premex Solutions, MS Printing Solutions, J-Teck USA Inc., Nuprimary, Reggiani Macchine SpA, Caldera and Vanguard Digital Printing Systems.
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